KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread

dekozn · July 17, 2017, 4:59pm

check member wwefans, I believe he sells AA/14500 drivers L/M/H no memory no blinkies. It’s the driver used in the reylight pineapple

Jensen567 · July 17, 2017, 5:00pm

This driver will work for your voltage range, but it is L-H-Strobe. I have ordered one of the CF-17mm drivers recently, so I can let you know if 14500 works when it arrives.

http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024883.17mm-0_9V-3_6V-3-Mode-Boost-Driver-Circuit-Board

Not sure where you could purchase one but the driver out of a Lumintop Prince Mini sounds like exactly what you are looking for.

MascaratumB · July 18, 2017, 12:43am

@ dekozn
Thanks for the tip! I sent PM to WWEFANS asking about the driver, if has them and if I can buy one from him! Thanks for the information!!

@ Jensen567
Hum, I really wanted a (ML-)L-M-H driver, if possible without stobre. I’ve seen the one you linked, but it doesn’t fit my needs!
When you receive the CF-17 driver, please let me know if it works with the 14500! Just don’t damage it trying the battery!
Both Reylight and that Lumintop are what I want, concering the mode specs, but I would like to mod a light instead of buying another one. One must see what is affordable in the moment… :money_mouth_face:
I’ll wait for the answer of WWEFANS and also your feedback, please!

Thanks in advance! :+1:

MascaratumB · July 18, 2017, 3:06pm

I received today an answer from KD store in AliExpress (I asked about the drivers above mentioned as well).
The “CF 17mm 0.9V - 3.3V 4 Groups 2 to 5-Mode” *doesn’t work *with 14500 battery!
Probably the one you linked works with it, but I won’t try it for now!
I asked WWEFANS some drivers and we’re in contact!
Thanks for your answers :+1:

Barkuti · July 18, 2017, 4:05pm

Sent BanL the following question via PM five days ago. I believe it's worth sharing:

Three days later…

I believe the yellow top switch is adequate, it's no problem for me to solder it a copper sheet lead elongation.

If anyone is willing to contribute some additional worthwhile information, you're welcome.

BanL · July 19, 2017, 4:19am

Barkuti:

Sent BanL the following question via PM five days ago. I believe it’s worth sharing:

Barkuti via private message to BanL:

Hi BanL.

I’m looking to replace a damaged switch in an UltraFire SK98. Looks like this:

My measurements of it are: 13.5 × 11.6 × 9.5mm, if I am to include the slightly protruding by the sides lamina leads I’d say it is 14 × 11.6 × 9.5mm.

Closest thing I’ve found in your site is this: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024454.DIY-LED-Flashlight-Reverse-Clicky-Switch-14mm-x-9_5mm-for-LED-Flashlight-5-pcs(link is external)

Of course, the leads are slightly different but that’s something I can fix.

There’s this one too: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024498.DIY-LED-Flashlight-Reverse-Clicky-Switch-14_8mm-x-9_6mm-for-LED-Flashlight-5-pcs(link is external)

Which one do you think fits better?

Thanks.

Regards,

Salvador

Three days later…

BanL via private message to Barkuti:

Hi Salvador

OKay.

Let me try to see any SK98 replacement switch and reply to you on Monday.

If not, i will try to see any switch is fit.

Thank you

Ban

I believe the yellow top switch is adequate, it’s no problem for me to solder it a copper sheet lead elongation.

If anyone is willing to contribute some additional worthwhile information, you’re welcome.

Sorry for replying you late.

There is too many different SK98s in the market.

And the above two flashlight switches does not fit for the SK98 flashlight.

Thank you

Ban

delete · July 22, 2017, 8:29am

my c8.2 xhp50.2 led 2die has dead

!!

zeremefico · July 22, 2017, 9:18am

Modded or stock?

delete · July 22, 2017, 10:01am

stock.
I’ve just been using it for a few 10 or 15 minutes.

EasyB · July 22, 2017, 1:34pm

I’ve seen several reports of this happening. Most of them have been using a FET driver so high current, but well below the max current that djozz tested. I wonder if the attachment of these flip-chip dies to the underlying substrate is not robust and can be disrupted by shock or thermal cycling.

giorgoskok · July 23, 2017, 12:43pm

I have a C8.2 here that i’m reviewing , it still runs great after 5 full runs on max setting (5* 45 mins) , without a fan etc .

khas · July 23, 2017, 4:47pm

I had the same thing happen to one of my XHP50.2, but I also have two still working fine : one in a Thorfire C8s with a H1-A driver and a Jaxman M2 with a LD-3 driver driven @ 6A.

JIGHEADWORM · July 23, 2017, 9:18pm

Been looking at this light thinking about getting one.Would appreciate your opinion on it.

BanL · July 24, 2017, 2:52pm

Hi delete

Please let me know more about the flashlight problem.

All the flashlights before we shipped out has been done a full battery testing.

I would like to see what is the matter and see how to improve it.

Thank you

Ban

EasyB · July 24, 2017, 3:05pm

Ollie:

giorgoskok,

The fan would only work if the heat is getting to the outside surface of the light. I’m not being a wise guy. I just tried an experiment. Now, these lights aren’t driven very hard. However, I got to wondering if I could improve heat transfer. First up was putting a small amount of computer cpu “grease” on the threads, letting some slop over onto the ledge that the lip of the pill screws down against. Then I put the reflector into the head, to see how much space there was. Quite a bit, as it turns out. So I put three of those gray putty-looking heat transfer blobs on the inside if the head, put the reflector in, and screwed the bezel down tight. And we have a winner! After reassembly, I was comparing the beam pattern of an XM-L C8 to the C8.2. What I noticed was that the C8.2 was getting warm faster than before. I don’t have the means to measure how much warmer, but it does happen quicker.

This makes sense if you think about it. I asked Texas_Ace a question some time ago about heat. He said that 70% of the heat transfer was from LED to MCPCB and then to the body of the light. That means that the other 30% is going out the front. Shine the light on your hand, and you can feel it. To get there, the light has to hit the reflector, and in a C8, the reflector is aluminum. If we can transfer that heat from the reflector to the head of the light, this would be beneficial. Otherwise except for a couple of places, the reflector is just sitting in a good insulator, air.

I would hope that someone with a IR gun would quantify this. The effect may even be minimal, but it’s easy and cheap to do. I’d like to do this with the 70.2/Mag build, if I ever get to it. I suspect the benefit might be less, in that format.

Ollie

Roughly 30% of the input power leaves as light, but this doesn’t mean the reflector is heated significantly. The reflector might absorb 10% of the light, so all together maybe 3% of the power is heating the reflector.

giorgoskok · July 24, 2017, 3:58pm

The pill has a very good fit , i don’t think this is the problem…

bibihang · July 24, 2017, 4:04pm

Seriously? For every flashlight before shipping it out you need to run it on high mode for about 40 mins?

BanL · July 24, 2017, 4:48pm

Hi

Yes, for the KDLITKER flashlight, it will turn on the Hi-mode and run for at least 30 mins until the low voltage warning appear (Light is flashing).

Thank you

Ban

Virisenox · July 24, 2017, 4:53pm

It’s awful. You have to enter text the exact way it appears in the product title in order to get anything to show up.

BanL · July 24, 2017, 4:58pm

Thank for your advice.

We will keep improving on our system.

If you get any error or not functioning well, please let me know.

Thank you

Ban