TK's Emisar D4 review

I LOVE that UI, thank you for your wonderful work TK !
I wish the thermal config was that easy in my TA driver with Narsil (I have it in a Nitecore HC30 and struggle to use the thermal config :frowning: )

If there is no way to configure memory mode, how about a long press to memory mode, and single click is on in low mode?

While I can flash the ATTiny, I’d much rather see this UI available directly from Richard…. the more I see here the more I want to see it in my shopping cart at mtnelectronics.com. :smiley:

The UI looks great. Well the FW fit on a attiny25?

Love the new UI!

Probably an ATTiny85

Yes. Hopefully Richard will start selling preassembled drivers in different diameters with this UI. That way we can install it in all our e-switch lights. :+1:

YES! +1 to this. I have a H02 with a dead driver that I would love to have this set up in.

well that and a green D4 with almost 4k lumens of nichia goodness. will be watching this for updates on the v2 release

That is an awesome feature!

Nice work TK

Love the new changes thanks for all your work TK, will ramping output on beacon be also something that transfers to the output of the bat and temp checks light output as well…?
Or are they not all connected, I have no clue about coding stuff but I can tell you that the work you do can be very important to someone someday on many levels.
I’ve been with WA State Search and Rescue since 1975 and was showing some of your UI;s in some lights to a few guys and one guy asked me while I was showing him how I could use one of your UI’s to check the battery levels and his response was, Oh really, I thought that was a international distress signal, well I near hit the floor, he was right, well needless to say he was on to something because it does look very close to international distress and if I saw that on a rescue blinking out your bat volts or temp even I’d have thought the same thing that he did, but seeing it so often knowing it’s bat check that never occurred to me before so if lost in WA State just use TK’s bat check or temp reading for signaling for help and bag the beacon, amazing,
Your work TK might save someones life, no joke. So always keep one cell at 3.3v when hiking in mountains just in case … ha ha ha,

Fixed that smooth tube to comfortable hand fit now, feels nice and rubbery and not slippery at all and fells better in diameter. Helps keep heat down from the head as well.

There is currently no way to turn memory off. Setting the memorized level is easy though; it automatically remembers whatever you ramp to.

I think that’s the plan. :slight_smile:

No, it’ll fit on attiny45 though.

It won’t be feasible on tiny25 until I write a whole new code base from scratch… and maybe not even then.

No, the “check” levels are hardcoded at a medium-low output level. Bright enough to read the value, dim enough to not use much power.

The momentary “tactical” mode is hardcoded to use only maximum output. For the sort of person who wants a tactical burst mode, I don’t think they’d be happy about having it “burst” at only 30 lm if they had been using the light to look in the glove box a few minutes beforehand. Me, I’d rather have an adjustable momentary mode… but I don’t think I’m the target audience for this feature.

Wow this thread goes fast!
Am I telling the truth here:

?

What did you use for the grip sleeve on your D4?

I wish they’d do a run of knurled 18650 body tubes for this light.

FWIW, it’s probably not a good idea to add insulation to a hotrod light. It might make the light easier to hold when it’s hot, but … if it’s too hot to hold, it’s probably too hot period. Adding insulation just makes it get hot faster and makes it more likely to damage itself. It needs as much heat-shedding capacity as possible, and a sleeve eliminates an awful lot of surface area.

On the upside, with your adjustable firmware he can just set the temp sensor to a good setting with the sleeve equipped.

I’m not a huge fan of smooth tubes with no knurling. Lights like that feel slippery. They don’t feel secure in the hand. The ideal solution would be for someone to make an optional 18650 battery tube for the Emisar with knurling.

Alternatively, I can try to make a grip sleeve for the light. I did that with my SC63w with good results by adapting a sleeve from a budget light. Solved the grip issue. It does get hotter faster, but because it has a temp sensor it’s not a problem.

Or I can use my hand knurler to try to apply my own knurling. This works, but looks like total crap. I’d prefer to avoid this if I have an option.

Wondering if the diameter of the battery tube is anywhere near that of a bicycle handlebar? Or motorcycle throttle grip? There are a lot of those that are skeletonized such that they’d breath the heat out but prevent a direct contact between skin and the light. Just thinking out loud…

You could try using 3-4 tight fitting o rings.
The D4’s tube diameter is 24mm.

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170720112443&isPremium=y&SearchText=o+ring

I think so?

I’m not sure how accurate my calipers are, but it says 23.9 mm for the body tube.

Then again, it says my Efest cell is 65.0 mm, and RMM’s site says 65.4 mm… and 23.9 is an unusual size. So, I suspect my calipers might be a little nearsighted. I guess that’s what I get for raiding my dad’s junk drawer instead of buying a good one. :slight_smile:

*clackety clack*

Okay, now I have a script to correct for measurement bias, using 65.4 / 65.0 as the correction factor.