TK's Emisar D4 review

You could try using 3-4 tight fitting o rings.
The D4’s tube diameter is 24mm.

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170720112443&isPremium=y&SearchText=o+ring

I think so?

I’m not sure how accurate my calipers are, but it says 23.9 mm for the body tube.

Then again, it says my Efest cell is 65.0 mm, and RMM’s site says 65.4 mm… and 23.9 is an unusual size. So, I suspect my calipers might be a little nearsighted. I guess that’s what I get for raiding my dad’s junk drawer instead of buying a good one. :slight_smile:

*clackety clack*

Okay, now I have a script to correct for measurement bias, using 65.4 / 65.0 as the correction factor.

Thanks TK for the insight re: output on bat check and the like, just thoughts and I can only imagine what you’d be fully capable of if only you had more room to put your coding into, it was only a thought.

Re: how I did the tube, I use 1” industrial heat shrink tubing, but it takes some work, you have to turn it inside out because of ugly industrial printing and the finish, I already knew how much it will pull back adding to the finished thickness so it went from the 24mm tube bare ano to just under 25mm finished, then use an exacto knife to trim and then use some light gauge sandpaper to scuff the rubber up and then I use some stuff called super lube to rub into the scuffed rubber and that will make it even softer, this stuff will absorb heat like from around hot electrical wires so I had thought about what TK mentioned but really there is zero chance of any of my lights ever getting so hot to cause me any issues again after what I was taught yesterday, so this won’t over heat your light but was something smart to think about,
I thought first about actually doing the head with some stuff I have but just in the grooves on the head, this stuff draws out heat and would keep the ano from touching your skin, probably will see what happens with that but after TK gets the new no screwing around with lights ready for sales.
These lights have become my lets see what happens lights, if you know what I mean…
By the way just adding 1mm of extra thickness to that tube makes it really comfortable holding it, I have bigger hands so I sometimes have done this same thing even doubling it to have some grip to the lights and never have had an issue, there are lots of different ways to do this, shrink foam tubing is good also but never use the shrink with the adhesive inside, that will not make you happy believe me,

Edit: TK your calipers are spot on, I just rounded up but your measurement is exact…

Eh, space isn’t a limitation on this light. It’s using less than half the available bytes, and I might be able to get it down to a quarter with enough refactoring. I like this little stuff; it’s kind of my version of playing sudoku. Bigger and more complicated tends to feel more like “work” instead. And I particularly dislike dealing with bad architecture and bad architects, which tends to happen a lot with bigger projects.

With more space, people make bigger and weirder abstractions which cause bigger headaches. To see how that can go wrong, look at some of the stories here: The Daily WTF

Nice review TK!

My thoughts:

I love how it is simple which allows the basics to be done right.

It seems to me that any new light designs should highly consider on board charging. If I have a handful of lights to sell to the average joe, the last one chosen is the one without charging no matter how cool the light is. On the other hand, flashlight lovers don’t seem to care as much.

I thought the “raptor claw” 7135 was considered a preferred brand. No? The fet used here must be a good one!

It’s a very big bummer that the light needs to be ramped up every time it is turned on, or is this not the case? If there isn’t mode memory in a light like this, it would be better to have the light turn on at 5-600 lumens area. Then the light is useable in 90% if situation and also prevents danger from mode memory on the higher modes.

I’m interested to see if there will be any revisions. And I’ll be watching as I see a very desirable light! :slight_smile:

^ I see LightRider only read the first post. :smiley:

How do you really feel about Lennart Poettering? Sometimes we nerdy types find it hard to grasp social subtlety.

Regarding having a little more grip or knerling. I have found Talon Grips to work awesome. They are textured “grip tape” that can be adhered to the light. They hold up GREAT to heat as well.

I have some on my R50PRO modded by Vinh as well as some on my Wizard Pro.

I use both of these lights for work daily and Talon Grips have held up perfectly.

They come in a rubberized surface or a sandpaper surface. I personally like rubberized.

Many gun enthusiasts use pre-cut Talon Grips on there gun handles for better grip. But, they also sell sheets of them as well for people like us.

Just another option. Advertisement done……

Yes, I thought about giving that disclaimer as part of my post but decided regardless I would give my first impressions even though I knew my thoughts would be redundant… eh, I’ll just be quiet til I find time to read next time.

Haha, no. You’re good. I just like to tease people. :slight_smile:

I’m glad you liked the review. And yes, there’s a revision coming up soon which fixes the issue you mentioned. :slight_smile:

Well said right there.

Also, when where can we buy this light??

Soon, from Intl-Outdoor and Mtn Electronics.

If it passes final tests, it’ll probably be available pretty quickly.

Disclaimer: i only read the first two pages…

Thanks TK for the in depth review.
I can barely believe the numbers… 2k+ lumens on 18350 and 3k+ on 18650 right?
Is the head waterproof enough it can be used to heat up a cup/mug of tea/coffee? lol.

After the S42 snafu this is refreshing… sort of.

I’m hoping for a revised UI too.

As i see it ramping is kinda cool but seems not very practical unless there are shortcuts to some predefined levels.
How about one, two, three click and long press from off to low/mid/high/turbo - similar to some DQG Tiny lights, then press and hold to ramp up/down if need be? One click to turn off. No memory…

I still want one! :slight_smile:

I’ve been practicing my Professor Snape impersonation so I can inflect the proper degree of disdain when I trip over something he broke and exclaim, “Poettering!”

This happens on a fairly regular basis.

Not this time. However, if you get Narsil flashed onto it, you can use its mode-group UI. It works almost exactly like you described.

HAHAHAHA :stuck_out_tongue:

Well, I got a programmer and a clip and dove head first into firmware flashing…

I actually managed to get Narsil onto my D4! :partying_face:

It took a fair bit of head scratching and about 15 browser tabs, but I got it working on the first try!

TK: Thanks for the detailed review, updates on D4 UI tweaking, and your helpful flashing info. :+1:

TomE: Thanks for Narsil. I can practice with the D4 until the Q8 launches! :smiley:

Narsil is nice, no?

Be careful about heat though; Narsil doesn’t have the right kind of thermal management for a small hotrod light. That’ll probably happen soon though.

Yes, Narsil is sweet!

Thanks for the heat advisory. I set the stepdown temperature to the minimum by clicking just after the 5 second mark, but it still gets blazing hot while stepping down.