Looks pretty good to me , thought the beam may hav been a little tighter , anyway i will compare to the Sniper M24 shortly out in the farm hills real use spotlighting
and yes i got some of the 30q`s for it
So Those of you that now hav yours What do you think , And those of you that like to Mod whats your thoughts ? can it be tweeked easily ?
dave
I am thinking of getting a bunch of XHP35 HI E4-3C Neutral white from cutter
this LED has better efficiency and color
my review sample is still in transit
Great looking light, but I’m curious about the regulation, Klarus lights have good thermal management but the temperature ceiling is set too low (not driven hard enough after first thermal drop)
the mass and heat radiating surface of this light compared to a XT12GT is way higher, I doubt any temperature stepdown at normal ambient temperatures
For the highest output you probably will have to add solder blobs or magnets to your 30Qs. See post #109 #111 on M4D M4X thread.
my 30Q`s are the unprotected button tops , and the G35 seems twice as bright as the UT02 so i think the battery`s hav good contact
im ready to compare the G35 with the M24 sniper asap
dave
And now im dissapointed with the G35, its a good 20% below the Sniper M24 for distance
Sniper is a tough act to follow least of all beat, I’ve got snipers and the 2x’s and the closest light I have with the needed reflector is my modded jaxman X1 with xhp35 but still falls just short of the maxtochs by maybe 200m
i was expecting it to be reasonably close , G35 says 1000 mtrs and the Sniper M24 says 1100 mtrs but the G35 falls shorter than that
how can i check the current draw with 3 battery set up ??
I got my review sample
I tried to get the tail cap retaining ring open
Now trying acetone, and got it open twisting it clockwise
you can measure it as the tail switch is electronic, if its not needed for the driver
B1- needs to be bridged with the battery tube and 3B3+ and B2- connected
Looking forward to your review! Interested in this light but puzzled by how people reported different readings using different length batteries.
this tube has quite a lot locktite inside and its bigger than 1x18650 lights, my usual aproach failed
need to get more drastic methods, thought about applying punctual massive heat with this little guy
My g35 has a beam problem. It must be misadjusted led height or something. I used heat to get the bezel off and once I did that and loosened the bezel the beam tightened up nicely. But now I have a loose bezel. If I tighten it down the beam screws up again. It actually bends the bottom part of the reflector up. If I loosen it goes straight again. Not sure how to fix this. Anyone else have issues with the beam on your g35? I dont have a good enough camera to take any pictures sadly.
you could simply put a thick sheet of paper between the star and the plastic centering ring
simply use a puncher to get the 3 needed holes in it
if its not enough stack them
I think the spacer needs to go around the outer part of the bottom of the reflector. That way it won't bend the reflector upward when I tighten it. I'm not sure though. You can watch the reflector bend when I tighten it.or maybe I should remove a slight amount of material at the top of the reflector.maybe it is too long?
As far as I know the bezel dont need to be screwed down all the way, it is enough that there is some force pushing the star on the shelf
if you bend the reflector you use way too much pressure, loosen the bezel a bit and use a tiny bit of locktite, like the light was originally