I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?
I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.
Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.
Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.
If you mean less work, then you can do a driver swap and easily exceed 5,000 lumen. That’s basically soldering 2 wires. Very easy, but about $25 for the driver.
If you mean cheaply, then maybe you can get the stock driver to work. You can add a jumper wire across the resistors. For this you can just pull the stock driver out a little bit and solder the wire on. It doesn’t cost anything, but I don’t know if you would hit 5,000 lumen.
With any type of mod to the driver, you will always get more output using a unprotected, low internal resistance battery, like the Liitokalas.
Oh yeah, and the cool white versions are always gonna give more output than the NW.
Actually, Jason, the green you’re seeing is some stuck on coating (on the underside of the resistor) from the circuit board that I lifted the resistor off of. The right hand pic shows a swatch of green missing from the board. The top is black with R100 printed.
If you decide to remove driver for swapping out or working on, JasonWW shared a Kawiboy tweak that was pictured on post #265, but now photo is not available (due to photobucket crackdown). It allows you to remove driver & side switch without desoldering the switch (recommended).
I m modding a L6 silver with a 30mm fet driver from MTN and xhp70 N4 bin.
I have de soldered and replaced led and driver and side switch.
But when I turn on with tail switch I only have the high mode. Side switch dont do anything…
Any idea?
Okay, well you can check the side switch to make sure it’s making continuity just by putting a multimeter on it and pressing the button to see if you have contact. If it has continuity without pushing the button then you may need to desolder one of the wires so you can check it properly.
Or just short the switch pads, bypassing the switch to see if the driver responds.
That’s what it’s supposed to do. It’s normally open and when you push the button, that closes the circuit.
So if you rule out a bad switch, then the problem might be a component on the driver or maybe the firmware had an issue when it was flashed. I would have to wait to hear back from Richard because I can’t go any further than that.
This sounds like a short between battery negative/ground and LED negative. Basically connecting the LED direct drive. Commonly this can be caused by the reflector touching the negative LED wire, but you will have to find the short in your case because it could be several different spots.