Or it can join the long list of BLF giveaway prizes 
lol
Does anyone do a spring bypass and measure amps reading ?
I’ m interested how much is increased amps after spring bypass on stock version, with stock led and driver inside, so just s. b. nothing more ?
If you are talking about the Convoy C8, it would make little sense with the stock linear driver, as the 7135s will just consume the extra voltage and the increase in Amps will be 0, unless the battery is low.
I start looking for Reflash gears. Can I get a complete, good “REFLASH KIT” somewhere? In the mean time I’ll put in an BLF A6 driver. Is that good?
I got these from the same aliexpress highly positive feedback store, I think this is all the hardware you need
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pcs-lot-Programmer-Testing-Clip-SOP8-SOP-SOIC-8-SOIC8-DIP8-DIP-8-Pin/32583236296.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pcs-lot-USBASP-USBISP-AVR-51-Series-Programmer-Download-Aluminum-Shell-64K-Limit-Support/1459903502.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-40pcs-1ROW-in-Row-Dupont-Cable-20-cm-2-54mm-1pin-1p-1p-Female/1970669232.html
I got these from the same aliexpress highly positive feedback store, I think this is all the hardware you need
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pcs-lot-Programmer-Testin… (link is external)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pcs-lot-USBASP-USBISP-AVR… (link is external)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-40pcs-1ROW-in-Row-Dupont-C… (link is external)
Thank you.
I got an S2+ from Simon with the 7A just because I figured I had to have at least one of every tint he offers. 
That one is an XM-L2 T4-7A. It’sd crazy warm, almost orange really. It’s not entirely unpleasant but I don’t find myself using it very often. It’s more orange than any incandescent I can think of but opinions vary. I bet if I took the time to get used to it I may like it but I haven’t yet. I find the T6-4C to be a really nice warm but not too warm balance. Very pleasing to the eye. This if course is only one opinion but I tend to agree with my opinions.
That’s good info, thanks. It sounds like it’s more amber in color, than a “warm white”. That was what I was afraid of. I guess Cree LEDs aren’t very good at emulating incandescent light. I guess they can get the color temperature, but can’t get a proper spectrum to give it a white tint. Probably too much yellow spectrum in the amount of phosphor they have to use to coat the LED to make it warm enough.
I guess I’ll stick with a 4C.
Keep in mind my only experience with that tint is in the XM-L2 that Simon offers. I can’t imagine the XPL-HI variant would be completely different but I don’t want to discourage anyone in their “tintexploration” 
There are no “wrong” choices in this journey and I find the exploration process quite fun. I also find my own opinion changing from time to time. I’d blame that on having “too many” flashlights, but as we all know there is no such situation that can be defined by our current mathematical system…
I’ve posted this elsewhere, but my wide-spectrum BST has a 7B emitter in it. It looks good when blended with the other three tints in this light, but by itself it looks very very yellow to me:
However, I think anything warmer than 4500K looks yellow — including the high-CRI 4000K Nichia emitters that many people around here like. And I find anything over ~5300K looks blue. I have a pretty narrow range of tints I actually like for “white”.
Do you find that incandescent light (when it’s the only light source) looks yellow? I find it doesn’t start looking yellow until it gets down towards 2500K. But, unlike you, I find the 4000K Nichia 219 looks white to me. I haven’t had as much luck with warm non-Nichia LEDs, though.
Yes, I find that incandescent lights look yellow if they’re 4000K or warmer. Even if they’re the only light source.
Under 5000K lighting, things look normal to me, like this:
But under “warm” lighting things look yellow, like this:
After a while, it makes my vision get weird so I can’t really see color any more. If I try to read on paper under a common incandescent light, the colors start inverting and pretty soon I can basically only see edges. It looks a bit like this:
Has been that way as long as I can remember. I don’t like “warm” tints, regardless of the CRI.
The HC50 is totally unrelated; it was just a random picture I used to show the effect.
Oh god, TK. Seizure warning next time, wouldja? :confounded:
Good god, that legit gave me nausea.
What we need is a cheap little device that can measure color temperature. Currently we just have to guess. One persons 5500k is another person’s 4500k. Even if you buy a certain temperature led, it can be off. It leads to a lot of confusion.
I’m with TK on what constitutes “white” and that’s my preference.
I can stare at that, as well as police strobes and the multi colored strobo thing that’s supposed to make people sick, no problemo.
I’ve measured in the range of half an amp to 3 amps gain when bypassing a spring in the switch. You have to take amperage at the emitter of course, to get both. Depends on the light and the quality of the construction in the tail cap. A C8 is usually pretty solid, 350 to 600mA gain in current, the output gain again depends on the emitter in use.
FWIW, I find a multi-stroboscopic effect (police strobe, say) in excess of 10,000 lumens difficult to stare into. Some, with their variable rates, even at 4000-6000 lumens can be hard to look straight at. But I can do it without feeling sick or whatever, it just hurts the cerebral cortex (or what’s left of it)
Adding to the above discussion, here is a photo of my three Convoy S2+ in (from left to right) 7A, 4C, and 1A tints (XM-L2).
Hard, unless you integrate. My 4C S2+ has a yellowish hotspot, but bluish spill. Looks overly warm to me just looking at the hotspot, but in ceiling-bounce tests, it’s absolutely a beautiful CT/tint.
To me, most lights have hotspots that are warmer than what it says on the tin. Conversely, the spill parts are cooler. You’d need to blend/integrate the light for anything accurate.
Unless you want to measure the CT of, say, the hotspot only. Then, it’s easier.
At 10,000 lumens, I don’t care if it’s strobing or not, it hurts to stare at. BTW, if you’re hand-holding that light and looking into it, it’s likely putting more lux on you than a noon-day sun. That might be doing damage to your retina.
Apropriate color temperature for our night vision depens on lumens.
If we use flashlight low mode than warm tint like 4C or even 7A is better option.
You mean “If we use the flashlight on low mode, then warm tints like 4C or even 7A are better options”, right?
Not correcting to be a grammar nazi, it’s because I literally went “wait what” and had to read the text again. It was real confusing right there.