I’ve posted this elsewhere, but my wide-spectrum BST has a 7B emitter in it. It looks good when blended with the other three tints in this light, but by itself it looks very very yellow to me:
However, I think anything warmer than 4500K looks yellow — including the high-CRI 4000K Nichia emitters that many people around here like. And I find anything over ~5300K looks blue. I have a pretty narrow range of tints I actually like for “white”.
Do you find that incandescent light (when it’s the only light source) looks yellow? I find it doesn’t start looking yellow until it gets down towards 2500K. But, unlike you, I find the 4000K Nichia 219 looks white to me. I haven’t had as much luck with warm non-Nichia LEDs, though.
Yes, I find that incandescent lights look yellow if they’re 4000K or warmer. Even if they’re the only light source.
Under 5000K lighting, things look normal to me, like this:
But under “warm” lighting things look yellow, like this:
After a while, it makes my vision get weird so I can’t really see color any more. If I try to read on paper under a common incandescent light, the colors start inverting and pretty soon I can basically only see edges. It looks a bit like this:
Has been that way as long as I can remember. I don’t like “warm” tints, regardless of the CRI.
The HC50 is totally unrelated; it was just a random picture I used to show the effect.
Oh god, TK. Seizure warning next time, wouldja? :confounded:
Good god, that legit gave me nausea.
What we need is a cheap little device that can measure color temperature. Currently we just have to guess. One persons 5500k is another person’s 4500k. Even if you buy a certain temperature led, it can be off. It leads to a lot of confusion.
I’m with TK on what constitutes “white” and that’s my preference.
I can stare at that, as well as police strobes and the multi colored strobo thing that’s supposed to make people sick, no problemo.
I’ve measured in the range of half an amp to 3 amps gain when bypassing a spring in the switch. You have to take amperage at the emitter of course, to get both. Depends on the light and the quality of the construction in the tail cap. A C8 is usually pretty solid, 350 to 600mA gain in current, the output gain again depends on the emitter in use.
FWIW, I find a multi-stroboscopic effect (police strobe, say) in excess of 10,000 lumens difficult to stare into. Some, with their variable rates, even at 4000-6000 lumens can be hard to look straight at. But I can do it without feeling sick or whatever, it just hurts the cerebral cortex (or what’s left of it)
Adding to the above discussion, here is a photo of my three Convoy S2+ in (from left to right) 7A, 4C, and 1A tints (XM-L2).
Hard, unless you integrate. My 4C S2+ has a yellowish hotspot, but bluish spill. Looks overly warm to me just looking at the hotspot, but in ceiling-bounce tests, it’s absolutely a beautiful CT/tint.
To me, most lights have hotspots that are warmer than what it says on the tin. Conversely, the spill parts are cooler. You’d need to blend/integrate the light for anything accurate.
Unless you want to measure the CT of, say, the hotspot only. Then, it’s easier.
At 10,000 lumens, I don’t care if it’s strobing or not, it hurts to stare at. BTW, if you’re hand-holding that light and looking into it, it’s likely putting more lux on you than a noon-day sun. That might be doing damage to your retina.
Apropriate color temperature for our night vision depens on lumens.
If we use flashlight low mode than warm tint like 4C or even 7A is better option.
You mean “If we use the flashlight on low mode, then warm tints like 4C or even 7A are better options”, right?
Not correcting to be a grammar nazi, it’s because I literally went “wait what” and had to read the text again. It was real confusing right there.
I especially like warm tints as low-illumination light an hour or two before I go to sleep. I find bright lights, and blue light (in cool lighting), makes it harder for me to go to sleep right away. It’s more a problem with bright light, but decreasing the amount of blue light helps too. Or, maybe warm lighting is just more relaxing.
I like to tailstand my M1 on the nightstand, turn it on “moonlight” (0,1%) and put a Thrunite T10’s diffuser down on the lens. Makes for a great night light with the 7A tint.
You have to keep in mind that this is an international forum and for a lot of the members here, English may be a 2nd or 3rd language. After a while you learn how to figure out what a person is trying to say even though it’s broken up and not exactly correct English.
I know that, my man. Believe it or not, it’s my second language :nerd_face: That’s why I’m not giving Tangra a hard time over it.
That is in fact one reason why I corrected the phrasing: because most second-language speakers not intently dedicated on learning already have a hard time with properly written language, a more broken phrasing can be even more confusing than it is for a native.
FWIW, it’s actually a good idea to avoid blue or cool-tinted lights before bed. The blue light interacts with cells in the eye called IPRGCs which then tell the brain to create serotonin. This makes people feel more awake. This effect can be avoided by using only warm-tint lights or wearing blueblocker-type sunglasses at night or using a screen color adjustment tool like redshift.
Well, mostly, anyway. Apparently about 3 out of every 20,000 people don’t respond to blue light this way, and I’m one of those 3. And, statistically, the other 2 are blind. So I’m a bit of a freak.
In general though, it’s good to avoid blue light before bed.
I have the same experience. I’m using Convoy driver with new firmware and I guess it’s the same driver in new C8. With original tailcap switch, I can easily change mode memory on or off, I set it to off and running normal.
But after I change the tailcap switch with Astrolux lighted tailcap from BG, then the mode memory is always on. In the beginning, I think the problem is in the driver. Something went wrong when I install the new lighted switch. Then I try to put on the original switch to check the config, and Voila! The mode memory setting is back to normal, easily to set on/off.
After that I put back on the lighted switch, then the mode memory is on again, can not be set to off.
Anyone can explain?
Yes. A lighted switch’s circuitry interferes wih Biscotti’s functionality.
When using Astrolux lighted switch you have to put bleeder resistor on driver to work properly.