D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Here’s what I found out. This was not a fun process, but in the end, worth it. I started with 2 0805 SMD resistors, a 220 and a 470 ohm in series, so 690 ohms. I was able to solder them together and then solder them to the spring and the retaining ring. It looked great and it appeared to work. I was able to medium press back between the modes, but the off time memory was screwed up. When the flashlight was turned off for an extended period, it would turn on in some random medium or high mode. So I used 2 220 ohms resisters and tried again. And again I got the same issue. I then tried to solder a single 220 ohm SMD resister, but was not able to bridge the spring and retainer ring. Then I used a 328 ohm carbon film resistor, and it worked!

Hi i want to convert the bad switch construction in this light (Did you know this Host? - #15 by TheOnlyDocc). I would like to use pilotdog68s design. But the available PCBs did not fit. Now i want to ask if you would help me to make two new PCB for this light? I have the measurements ready but i have not decided on the switch. I am waiting for BanL to get me the info i need( i would like to use this one (http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024079.DIY-LED-Flashlight-Reverse-Clicky-Switch-12mm-x-12mm-for-LED-Flashlight-Black-button-5-pcs) but if it is not high enough i would have to use a KAN28. It has nearly the perfect hight.

My original torch (the top LH solarforce shorty with the green cap in the first post) has been working perfectly since I put it together. It runs almost two months before it fully drains an 18350.
My wish list would be to find a way to fit a converter so we could run EL Wire instead of surface-mount LEDs, but those things require about 100v up-converted from DC to function.

~D

I have been thinking of using EL wire in a flashlight, but what has put me off trying it is what the cheap (few $ from Gearbest) EL-wire with driver does, that produces a pretty loud and annoying high tone. Are there versions that do not do that? (perhaps uses a higher frequency for generating the high voltage)

Maybe it just needs potted.

I want some of these generation two lighted tailcaps.

Maybe we can convince Richard to stock them in his store! :stuck_out_tongue:

I haven’t looked in depth, but I thought EL wire required like 100-volt alternating current at about 1000 Hz? It would need an inverter and a serious voltage boost and the frequency would likely be audible… I don’t think it works at higher voltage or inaudible frequencies, does it?

I thought it sounded like a fun addition to some projects… until I found out it required alternating current.

The only thing I can think of for some semblance of practicality is a wider body that can house two separate circuits. Kind of like a Spy 007. We could use 2x CR2’s to power the inverter, and maybe a 16650 powering the LED side.

No, it wouldn’t be ideal, but it sure would be attention-getting!

-D

Made another disco tail.

The last one I did had 6 slow colour-changing leds and was lots of fun. The only unexpected effect was that with the 6-led dumb board, every 2 leds share a resistor and are directly parallel, and when at one side the low voltage red led was lighted, a higher voltage blue one parallel would not light up. This led interaction was very interesting to observe but you hardly saw a blue one lighted at all.

Yesterday I did a new Jaxman E2L mod (see the wdymt thread), and today I thought it was neat to have another disco-tail made for it, but now with each led behind its own resistor. It required modding the tail ring. First some traces were cut and solder pads created:

Then the six resistors were soldered, clearing the area where the switch touches the board. The 3 extra resistors were connected to the plus-pad with a thin copper wire:

Then the 6 RGB leds were soldered.

Every tiny component and pad was tinned before soldering down, as I learned the hard way. * Steady hands and perseverence alert! *

The result is as predicted: now all six leds work independently. But they have no synchronised cycle so after switching off the light each time they start together but soon they run out of phase :partying_face: :

OOOOOh, Frik’n cool djozz.
Realy awesome.

+1.
I dont understand whats going on but believe it could cause nightmares if not used with caution. :beer:

This is great! I’ve only built one of these tails and I liked it well enough, but mine, just like yours, would “drop” blue within a few cycles. After 30 seconds or so they basically became reds and greens only, mostly reds. I had no idea what caused it but never built another because of it. But now I do! Thank you!

I have Astrolux tailcap switch from BG, the switch comes with only 1 led and 1 resistor (blue 1206 led and 2K 0805 resistor).

Already installed (the same 1206 blue led and 2K resistor) another led and resistor on the other side so I can have balance light from the switch. The problem is, after installation, the original led is very dim, and the new led is bright. Check all solder and nothing wrong. Anyone can help? This is the switch board. Thanks.

Ryley, I may be way off here, so hopefully someone else can validate, but I think you only need one of the resistors.

Actually, I already tested that. Solder the led first with no resistor (only 1 resistor with 2 leds), the result is new led bright and original led very dim. After that I install the resistor, so 2 led and 2 resistor, but nothing change. Same result here.

If one of the leds is original and the other is from a different manufacturer, then that could be it. I would try matching the leds since they might have different internal resistance.

Thought about that too… but now since you mention it, I will try to change the original led. Thanks WillyD!

Would like to share few lights nothing fancy. currently not using any ring pcb/boards, using white 3D printed rings instead of the metal in convoy not so bright compared to rev2 board because of the ring blocking the light looking forward when rev2 boards arrived from OSH.
I have S2+ with metal tailcap, but i’ll wait for rev2 boards as without it the light is just too dim with low current.

Ultrafire 502B, Astrolux S41, BLF A6, Ultafire C8, Convoy C8, Ultrafire C8 (left to right)

Very cool pic, rizky!

thanks djozz.