Perhaps the arrival voltage could show if a cell is old and in rested condition has lost some voltage? Or just as a reference point? Or truth in disclosure, stating everything the charge cycle showed them?
Sometimes I notice that when charging em up the first time, usually I don’t pay it a lot of mind. As long as all 4 are very similar that’s all I care to see. So maybe in this way you know the 4 cells are matched, not one old one from 2 years ago and 3 new ones. So yeah, it could be pretty relevant if you’re using all 4 cells in one light (which I am, these)
I might be wrong on that. It was either 3.8v for air travel so it’s mostly discharged or 3.8v might be the best voltage to store a cell at long term. Either way the battery companies always seem to send them out at that voltage.
Mentioning the arrive voltage is some sort of a tradition, it has always been this way. I think they do a couple cycles to the cell and set the end voltage to 3.7 or 3.8V, and if some cell arrives differently it means a bad cell or inconsistency in the QC process. I do like to see perfectly matched cells on arrival and after discharge cycles, probably that information can help others too.
BTW it is extremely easy to add a solder blob top to the cells, just sightly sand the top, use your iron on the highest setting and use a low melt solder. It is way more reliable than using the spacer and reduces resistance.
Aaah, you mean metal spillings, shadockan? None. :-)
I have a couple of LiitoKalas from a dismantled, work in progress powerbank, but it doesn't looks very fine on these as they only have a “dismantled” wire solder. ;-)
I have to solderblob a TrustFire IMR14500 (red-gold) for a friend soon, and he already has one of those done plus an NCR18650B. I'll recall for a nice picture of this to be shot.
Just tested between my blue and black LiitoKala 26650’s in a modified Convoy L6 (FET driver, XHP-70.2)….
Blue showed me 16.48A and did 9,108 in the light box
Black showed me 18.16A and did 9,280.5 in the light box.
192 lumens more at the sacrifice of 1.68A more draw, seems odd, but I’ve seen it where it flips, the one that has highest current doesn’t necessarily produce the most lumens.
shadockan, I never said I was into assembling packs profesionally. Doing it with this solder and technique can be relatively fast, yet I believe this is more adequate for custom builds and high current, as I can use and solder very big wires with ease.