The D4 V2 UI does step the power back up after the temperature goes down.
The Aspire was a clear winner between three 18350s. I also tested a purple Efest 700mAh at 2280 lumens and a grey Enercig 700mAh at 2440 lumens.
Good to know.
I’m very impressed with the Aspire 18350. Blows away the Efest purple in performance and capacity. Even seems to beat the Efest 18500 1000 mAh.
It makes 18500s feel a bit like a 5th wheel. You get less capacity on the best 18500 than you do with Aspire 18350 now while carrying a bigger battery and light.
However, despite this I have been EDC’ing the D4 with Efest 18500. Mainly because the 18500 battery tube is long enough for me to put Talon Grip tape on the battery tube. The light feels much better in the hand with it than the bare aluminum of the 18350 tube.
Any ideas about the numbers being so different from the declared ones? I M also curious of the xp-g2 and xp-l hi values at this time. I've ordered a nichia version in the end hoping it will be overall (lumen wise) on par with my dtt40 (imalent numbers are always... Meh) so it should have been possible with those numbers if legit
Maukka specifies that the numbers are not turn-on maximum numbers. The output sags very, very quickly.
Yeah should be very very very quickly... like 300lm/sec
Emisar D4 in black and grey with Talon Grip tape installed on the 18650 battery tube:
This tape is great. Available on Amazon. Easy to install. Thin but durable. Sticks great. Turns a slippery light into a super-grippy one.
Have you see the numbers in this review, page 1 in this thread?
Yes those were the number I was referring to. I mean. It's the delta from what maukka has reported and what hank has stated.
ANSI lumens vs flashlight lumens, mostly.
Most flashlight companies use a “lumen” value which is somewhat different than the ANSI standard lumen. I’m not sure why, but it happened and it kinda got stuck that way. Maukka uses something pretty close to the official standard, and I’ve been using something pretty close to the flashlight industry’s unit.
This difference also shows up in Zebralight lumens vs EagleTac lumens. EagleTac’s numbers are lower for the same actual brightness. It seems like most companies and most of BLF and CPF are using Zebralight’s scale though, or something very close to it.
The general rule is that published lumen numbers are only comparable to other numbers published by the same person or same company. Measurements by different people use different units, because no two are calibrated quite the same. This does improve somewhat when multiple people use meters created and calibrated by a single person, which has happened occasionally, but for the most part, different people’s numbers aren’t comparable.
Thanks! You’re even more meticulous than I thought. 
(also, I updated my earlier post speculating that you might check a few samples instead of every last piece)
I’m not surprised. This thing uses twice as much power as my soldering iron. Starting fires is not a difficult task for it.
Basically the entire top half of the ramp is “turbo”, as in “burst mode only”. There are reasons why it steps down quickly and doesn’t have a way to completely disable thermal regulation. 
(if used inside an insulated space like a pocket, though, even a few seconds can be long enough to cause trouble… and it has no way to sense when that’s happening)
Incidentally, I tried checking the driver in one of my D4s.
Unlike the prototype reviewed in this thread my driver was NOT glued in. It was just press-fit. I was able to push it out using the pointy end of a flat toothpick inserted around the LED wires. This means getting to the driver to reflash it should be easy.
I love this light.
It should be renamed “The NutRoaster” or something like that. :smiling_imp:
I carry it in my pocket without any lockout, however I do make sure to only put it in my pocket with it turned off in a low setting. If it does turn on accidentally, hopefully it won’t ramp up to dangerous settings before I notice.
The button protrudes slightly, but does seem flat enough that I haven’t had any accidental activations yet. Keeping fingers crossed it doesn’t happen.
I don’t have anything to add, but I really appreciate the extra info and measurements! Posts like these make me sad that BLF doesn’t have a ‘like’ button.
I eagerly await the Guide to Flow Soldering On Your Flashlight
Just put a little metal flat plate over the emitter, eh?
I popped mine out with the end of a match (not the striking end). It popped out pretty easily.
Hank mentioned he’s sending me a new Emisar so hopefully that will arrive soon. I sent back the defective one to RMM today so it will be interesting to hear what was actually wrong with it.
Is the paste conductive enough to run before it reflows fully? Maybe just stick the emitters on there and crank the power up to 100% until they reflow themselves. 
I was thinking the other day……… geeeeez, in the wrong hands this is an accident waiting to happen. Like George Carlin said “ think for a second how dumb the ‘average’ person is……. then half the people will be dumber than them” I don’t think anyone that knows what they are holding will have problems short of an accident but think of all the folks(especially yunguns) that might turn it on without knowing that it is not just a ‘regular flashlight’.
I was in particular thinking of a young kid(3-5yo) that might turn the light on then drop it on something flammable. Its just scary.