My 18350 tube had that too, maukka, the shaving forms where the threading ends. I did not think much of it, just pulled it off, but you are right, there is a possibility of things going wrong if you are not observative and unlucky.
Buy a sheet of gitd foil. Then you can cut two stripes around 3mm wide and stick them around the inside of the light. There are two flat walls where you can stick them to.
Just a pic to compare it to the S42. The D4 is superior in all aspects but one: USB charging.
But that is quite a big one for me though, a future version of the D4 with USB charging (and regulated maximum modes that temper those modern low Vf emitters a bit) certainly would be an improvement for me, even if that adds a few mm of length.
How is the tint on the xpl-hi 3a.I got the nicha 219c version and was thinking about getting the xpl-hi mcpcb from international and trying it.I figured for about the same price as and xpl-hi i could have the light and 2 different mcpcb.
Never used or heard of GITD Foil, but I use this Products - Glow-On and it’s pretty impressive!
Th adhesive vinyl works best, it last about 8-12 hrs, at about the out put level of a trit, the paint (water based) not as long but is good for filling in the back ground of the board, but it is a PITA to use, I have bags of the powder too that I mix with petroleum/epoxy based paints, it applies easier if you thin it out.
On these smaller lights I just stick with the vinyl tape. I have a precision shim punch and knock out some different size dot’s to stick dead center of the triple and quad boards, then use a razor and straight edge to make strips, to run around the ID of the head or small strips just at the top or bottom of the LED’s or to make locator strips around the battery tube or head of the lights.