Test/review of LiitoKala INR26650-50A 5000mAh (Cyan)

The Hengi Battery cell maybe (26650-50B)?

I mentioned it in some message up there.

Thank you Barkuti.

thanks i was about to ask this exact question. Will order a couple Liitokala 26650 soon for my L6

Amateur, I build with my friend some bike packs.
Welds should be in such a way that there is as little loss as possible.

Nothing special of course, but now I have seen a problem with the BMS and the Volts cut off.

I’m generally looking for the problem ……….

Thank you .

Hi Newlumen

Good weekend .Now shockli 26650 5500mah have button top.it

is good contact for series .

I will keep in mind… I bought 26650 series connector already… in the future, I will purchase that button top.

shadockan, I never said I was into assembling packs profesionally. Doing it with this solder and technique can be relatively fast, yet I believe this is more adequate for custom builds and high current, as I can use and solder very big wires with ease.

I don’t have a solder machine…

How much do the Shockli’s cost?

Shockli flat top cost $8.49 each from the US sellers… about $4 shipping too…

By the way, I am getting worried my 26660/18650 series connector… it has been 26 days since they shipped…

This is an easily fixed problem. :wink:

I’ll just stick with the LiitoKala’s then… much cheaper & real good. :wink:

I tried my best to send you some of those connectors so you would have them when you needed them. :person_facepalming:
But no ship to address was I given. :wink:

Good day BLFers. Currently I have 2 26650 protected cells for my stock L6. I need 2 more. Can I use non protected 26650 cells? The black Liitokala seems good price, but not protected. Will my stock L6 circuitry can function as protector? Noob question. Thanks :innocent:

Sure you can use unprotected. You’ll actually get a little more output from them due to the lower internal resistance.

If they are flat tops you’ll need to add solder blobs to them.

The stock driver let’s you know when the battery voltage is getting low, but I don’t remember the details of what it does.

Thanks Jason :slight_smile:

@ gleamer

If you go with the Littokala cells, check them when you get them to see if they will work in series. You might get lucky.

Even though they are flat tops & not designed to work in series…… about half of them will.

I have 18 of them & best I remember 10 of them will work in series.

I think it’s best to add the solder blob just to increase their total length. With my solder blobbed Liitokalas the springs on each end only compress a little. If I give the light a small bump on the front bezel (making the batteries slide forward) it will cut power for a second. I’m talking about a very slight bump.

So I may make the blobs a big taller or else make a spacer. I need a flat plastic disc (about the size of a poker chip) and maybe a copper or brass cylinder about 10mm diameter and maybe 5mm thick. I’d cut a hole in the plastic disc and press the metal piece inside. The plastic piece will hold the metal center in place and prevent it from touching the walls. It seems pretty easy, but I haven’t done it yet.

The extra tension might even boost the power just a little. Who knows? Lol

Yeah possibly if you have that problem.

But the LittoKala’s I have that do work in series work just fine without boobs. Jarring does not cause any disconnect or disruption of power.

Your spacer sounds good. But if you don’t want to take time to reinvent the wheel you can try one of these. :wink:

Slayer 1…… I just put them in the light and see if they work. Change them around from front to back position because there is no rhyme or reason to it.
Of the 18 I have, 10 of them will work in series just fine. I mark the ones that do so I do not have to check each time.
I wish I had something super scientific to tell you… but it is just trial & error. :slight_smile:

teacher, thank you for the explanation. I had the same understanding but wanted to know if there was a better way to it.