How is the tint on the xpl-hi 3a.I got the nicha 219c version and was thinking about getting the xpl-hi mcpcb from international and trying it.I figured for about the same price as and xpl-hi i could have the light and 2 different mcpcb.
Never used or heard of GITD Foil, but I use this Products - Glow-On and it’s pretty impressive!
Th adhesive vinyl works best, it last about 8-12 hrs, at about the out put level of a trit, the paint (water based) not as long but is good for filling in the back ground of the board, but it is a PITA to use, I have bags of the powder too that I mix with petroleum/epoxy based paints, it applies easier if you thin it out.
On these smaller lights I just stick with the vinyl tape. I have a precision shim punch and knock out some different size dot’s to stick dead center of the triple and quad boards, then use a razor and straight edge to make strips, to run around the ID of the head or small strips just at the top or bottom of the LED’s or to make locator strips around the battery tube or head of the lights.
Your welcome!
Yep, I have a couple horse hair brushes that work the best, the synthetic hair bristled brush will not hold the water base paint very well at all, and then spreads it out kinda streaky,but they work with the petroleum based paint!
Yep, Marketing 101, never use the word "cheap" ...inexpensive, value, bang for buck, cost-effective, economical...never "cheap" (even if it is!). Still waiting for Mountain to tell me they restocked...oh well.
Thanks for the suggestion. How about heat resistance? How do I find the best quality foil available internationally without huge shipping costs?
On another topic, for the last several years I got one good light. Peak Eiger. Unlike D4, it had a springless battery tube. The existence of spring means that one has to do a lot of unscrewing to stop the battery from making contact. It seems that it’s best to unscrew the head because it has shorter threads, but that’s still a bigger job than it would be springless. Furthermore, it’s impossible to fully remove power
It impacts D4 UI in 2 ways:
It is a necessary step to reliably access the max-7135 mode
Locking the light. I used to make a long turn, make sure that battery rattles slightly and new I did good. D4 has a 6-click. It’s actually more ergonomic because I don’t have to check for rattling. But I know I will forget how many times I need to click. And fiddling with the light in the dark to be able to actually make use of it doesn’t sound like good ergonomics. And even less like fun. It may be possible to loosen the tail cap enough without separating the light into pieces, but I’m not sure how reliable it is (minimal turn make the light blink as if I just connected power) and since the washer is at the wrong end of the threading, the light stops being waterproof.
Unscrewing the tailcap only very slightly already locks the D4 out because contact between tube and tail-pcb is broken, it is not needed to break contact between battery and spring. It works very reliably and is not even dependent on intact anodisation so when that wears out the lock-out still works.