TK's Emisar D4 review

That’s right. This D4 is very bad for the flashlight industry, and for the Chinese economy. :smiley:

It won’t work unfortunately.

I just measured my Zebralight clip and the “arms” are too wide. They measure about 3.6mm and the groove in the D4 tube is only 2.8mm wide.

It’ll work with a bit of grinding but not fresh out of the box.

And no flashaholic should be without (at least) one in their collection! :heart_eyes:

Thanks. Do you use normal art paint brush to apply the GITD paint?

Thank you. It’s nice and cheap. I will buy one.
Kind regards

It’s too late for me already. Everything you listed I either recently acquired or have one on the way :laughing:

Your welcome!
Yep, I have a couple horse hair brushes that work the best, the synthetic hair bristled brush will not hold the water base paint very well at all, and then spreads it out kinda streaky,but they work with the petroleum based paint!

I have, but I’m not interested in large multi-cell light…for now. This D4 is actually all that I need (I tell myself repeatedly).

Blasphemy to put the Emisar in that brand.

Perhaps “nice and inexpensive” or “nice and a great value”?

Yep, Marketing 101, never use the word "cheap" ...inexpensive, value, bang for buck, cost-effective, economical...never "cheap" (even if it is!). Still waiting for Mountain to tell me they restocked...oh well.

How about the best $40 light on the planet :slight_smile:

Thanks for the suggestion. How about heat resistance? How do I find the best quality foil available internationally without huge shipping costs?

On another topic, for the last several years I got one good light. Peak Eiger. Unlike D4, it had a springless battery tube. The existence of spring means that one has to do a lot of unscrewing to stop the battery from making contact. It seems that it’s best to unscrew the head because it has shorter threads, but that’s still a bigger job than it would be springless. Furthermore, it’s impossible to fully remove power
It impacts D4 UI in 2 ways:

  • It is a necessary step to reliably access the max-7135 mode
  • Locking the light. I used to make a long turn, make sure that battery rattles slightly and new I did good. D4 has a 6-click. It’s actually more ergonomic because I don’t have to check for rattling. But I know I will forget how many times I need to click. And fiddling with the light in the dark to be able to actually make use of it doesn’t sound like good ergonomics. And even less like fun. It may be possible to loosen the tail cap enough without separating the light into pieces, but I’m not sure how reliable it is (minimal turn make the light blink as if I just connected power) and since the washer is at the wrong end of the threading, the light stops being waterproof.

Unscrewing the tailcap only very slightly already locks the D4 out because contact between tube and tail-pcb is broken, it is not needed to break contact between battery and spring. It works very reliably and is not even dependent on intact anodisation so when that wears out the lock-out still works.

Good enough for me :slight_smile:

Definitely, thank you.

Fact.

The Nichia 5000K tint is a bit cooler than I expected. Compared to a few of my other “neutral whites” this feels more on the cooler side. Not a complaint just an observation. Actually when I put them side by side, the Nichia feels the most “neutral” while other “neutrals” feel slightly warmer. I’m starting to like warmer tints so I might have to pick up an XP-G2 5D next.
My only complaint it that the anodization on my 18500 tube is already scratched from inserting and removing the Convoy clip. I guess I can’t expect too much from a $5 tube. Might have to sand down the entire groove to make it look better.

Is a zero shown as something similar to half a blink?
At least I suspect that to be the case on mine.

Has anyone thought of building a flashlight with a phase change heat sink?

https://www.1-act.com/led-thermal-management/

Something that would contact the smooth outside of the light and carry heat away from it (better than your hand) would be useful.
Swords with gauntlet hilts that wrap outside of the grip area illustrate how it could work.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gauntlet+hilt+sword&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiejeX8rNLVAhUJi1QKHUUyC-IQ_AUICygC&biw=1106&bih=830#imgrc=zr9y3GNnmppEnM:

Here are some modern-tech designs: http://www.windrosearmoury.com/zc/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=71

That’s what I suspect as well. Got 50 a couple of times and 51 was clearly different.