Cheers man! I ordered the silver MT02 from Banggood as well. Hopefully within a week Iāll have mine. Less than $40 for such a beauty, haha! Itās my first Haikelite, so Iām stoked alright. :sunglasses:
And thanks for the recently uploaded videos rizky_p on youtube; I checked them all out. :+1:
A single 30Q is about three times more powerful than a single NCR18650B, so technically you should be able to power the light with just one cell. But itās straining the cell quite a bit.
Iām not too familiar with driver design, so I donāt know whether it will influence output. If there is a difference in output, then two 30Qs should be brighter than three protected NCR18650B. Haikelite advises three unprotected NCR18650GA, and maybe three NCR18650B could be insufficient.
Anyhow, two 30Q should be no problem, as long as they have a button top or solder blob for contact.
I have a few more side-by-side shots incoming if you interested there all uploaded but still in private including MT03 but i will release it along with my MT03 review. I also have Haikelite MT01(silver) sample by Banggood incoming and probably arrived on Monday so more side-by-side video along with it.
btw I am more interested in receiving my emisar D4 though hahahaha also on Monday.
Nice photo Pete7874. i wish i had the gear and skills to take awesome picture like that.
Should not be a problem i think As hIKARInoob said 30Q is more powerful, i tried running it with single Panasonic 18650B and it is doing that āramp-down and upā stuff it is like the voltage sags a lot. I also run my MT02 with 3xNCR18650B,
BTW my flat-top Samsung 30Q doesnt make contact without solder blob, and it damaged the wrapping slightly because of the circular motion.
I havent tried unsoldered NCR18650B since all mine are soldered-blob already
Thanks. Iāve got some 30q button tops on the way for this light.
I walked around with it running two 30q cells last night, and even after 10 mins on turbo, I could still hold it in my hand. Not sure if it would have gotten any hotter running on 3 cells. Outside temp was in the 60s F.
One thing Iāve noticed is that visually there isnāt much difference between high and turbo.
Has anyone been able to measure actual current draw at various modes?
This is the result, but bear in mind since the driver is using boost topology it doesnāt reflect emitter current.
I was using a single Samsung 30Q.
low = 0.19A
mid1 = 0.57A
mid2 = 1.5A
High = 2.8A - 3A
Turbo = 6A(start) 6.15A(few seconds afterwards)
On high and turbo the amp draw steadily climbs this reflect current regulation to the emitter to maintain stable emitters current. in lower mode should be the same but not that visible since the battery doesnāt sags as much.
It is interesting though, with some basic math on turbo with boost driver efficiency of 80% the emitter probably get around 1.4A.
what happened? i have done assembling disassembling battery tube and board many times during testing, nothing get undone so far. one thing that could unscrew probably driver retaining ring due to friction but it is still holding fine so far.
Im thinking that me trying to squeeze in protected cells put a large strain on it and weakened it. But in my defense, there is no warning on haikelites page NOT to use protected cells.
Another question, does this light have any kind of low voltage protection?
I am sure the rest of the light would be ok once you fixed the tail spring, could be the protected cells but none of my protected cell is short enough to power the flashlight so i gave up on that.
I am not sure of the of low voltage protection it is not mentioned anywhere in the manual, but the ramp up and down thing when battery almost empty is not documented either, in my opinion that ramp up and down is a battery low indicator since i could reproduce it every time.
btw. i have asked Haikelite to answer some of the questions posted here.