TK's Emisar D4 review

yeah i second that.

I saw a news release the other day where Yuasa in Japan announced a breakthrough in Lithium-ion cells that will be giving much more range to electric cars by 2020 or earlier. Didn’t see specifics… change is coming though.

hey sorry for the noob question but what does it mean if you hit turbo, get three distinct blinks and then get low? was it trying to tell me the cell didn’t have the amperage or the voltage to maintain the output? the cell was a GA and have 3.5v upon hitting the charger

i was able to take the tailcap off and replace it and it stopped doing it

At 3.5V, the GA probably doesn’t have enough oomph to run turbo… it sags and kicks in low voltage protection.

My XP-G2 S4 5D D4 arrived today very happy with the tint :

D4 XP-G2 5D (left) X5 Nichia 219C 5000K (right)

EDIT : Changed the emitters to Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92


D4Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92 (left) X5 Nichia 219C 5000K (right)

Now it’s perfect

The family should know better than to leave me home alone… made Daniel play with Shadow and spent a little more time on the lathe, dressing up the D4. Now it’s Baylor University colors and looks pretty sharp! :smiley:

I cut brass rings to either space it (at the tail cap, cut a new o-ring groove so it maintains water proofness) or simply at the top, for aesthetics. For a very brief moment I considered giving it to my brother, with his season tickets to Baylor home games, but well, naaaaaaa! :stuck_out_tongue:

nice look Dale! Thanks for sharing the picture.

Should get a better pic, playing with this new iPhone… took 2400 pics at an event Saturday, tired of messing with the big camera’s. lol

Edit: I should make that clear, I only took 771 pictures, gave out before the night was done and have to admit that I was NOT ready for an all day event! My wife took over 1600 pictures. We came home feeling mugged. Both hurting and broke as well (didn’t get paid, supposedly today, yeah, ok.)

I have the D4 in 219c and xpl hi and have noticed with battery voltage check the xpl hi reads .1volt lower than the 219c using the same battery Has anybody encountered this as well?

Can we buy D4's driver separately in future?

You can buy a FET+1 @ Mountain Electronics with D4 V2 Ramping firmware.

… in various different diameters. My shipment arrived today! Next project will probably swapping one into a DQG Tiny III triple.

Again no reply from the driver gurus?

I’m not a driver guru, but my guess is potting the driver with silicone, or squirting into the driver cavity lots of thermal grease, or putting a thermally conductive sponge on top of the MCU with the other side of the sponge pressing the bottom of the shelf all would have the same effect: Faster thermal transfer to the heat sensor and possibly a faster response in ramping down when it gets hot.

The potential disadvantage is that Toykeeper calibrated the thermal sensor for this exact light in its stock configuration. She said it doesn’t ramp down temp based on current temperature, but rather it looks at how fast temp is changing and then adjusts output down based on predicted future temperature.

Increasing the thermal conduction to the sensor might cause the temperature to change too rapidly at the sensor and result in excessive stepdown.

Still… only one way to truly find out…… you should test it! :sunglasses:

Okay, its spec page says…

  • H1 1100 Lm (PID, approx 2 hr)
    * H2:
    • 670 Lm (PID, approx 2.5 hrs)
    • 356 Lm (3.9 hrs)
    • 162 Lm (11 hrs)

So, I guess its highest level without thermal regulation (PID) is 356 lm.

This isn’t really surprising, since they have about the same amount of aluminum, same amount of thermal mass and surface area, so they have roughly the same ability to deal with heat. Maximum output at a given level of heat will be similar until we make LEDs and drivers more efficient or add extra cooling.

The Q8, for example, should be able to run significantly brighter at the same temperature, simply because it’s bigger.

I’m glad to see it’s so consistent, and that it reaches a fairly stable state in under a minute. I guess I must have done something right… The measurements are still pretty noisy though, so even with two lowpass filters it still jumps around sometimes at random.

However, I’m not sure I’ll ever make sense of the rainbow. The rainbow remains a mystery.

Thanks mate, been a ruff day’ please excuse my mood all.

Thanks! For a moment, I was starting to think that maybe Cree “5” tints might not be so bad, but your pics reminded me why I don’t use them. I might not mind a high-CRI Nichia at 4000K once in a while, but the Cree 5D looks unpleasantly yellow to me.

The measurement relies on the calibration of the attiny MCU, which is known to have significant variation between units. Voltage measurement varies by about 0.1V and temperature varies by like 12 C.

… maybe? It would probably improve things a little, but I haven’t tried it. I have some thermal transfer foam, but it’s not easy to wedge it between the MCU and the pill, especially in such a tight space with wires in the way.

Exactly.

One-upped again. More lumens, more mAh, more bling. You really don’t know how not to customize anything. :smiley: