TK's Emisar D4 review

Another change, not so much for the better…

I put 4 Nichia 319AT on Richards board and reassembled the D4. Now it pulls 13.85A for 3015.3 lumens on the “B” cell and 20.22A for 3677.7 lumens on the “A” cell. The beam pattern is nice and smooth, round, but with that odd discolaration in the center we’ve seen with the Cree XP-G3. Low on both cells is a fairly miserly 0.72 lumens.

Just pulled the trigger for #3 d4

Well, there is a bug tracker attached to the firmware repository… that might be a good place.

I have found that odd discoloration too in a quad 319AT driven hard. Kinda Grey on the spot. I was going to try the 18350 Aspire once I receive the tubes and batts. If that fails I will go regulated. I don’t find them worthwhile driven hard. I may or may not have used one in an NiMh AAA. Need to look. Maybe I just thought about trying it.

I plan to use 4 of the green XP-E2 when Richard gets the short tubes in, then it’ll be a little green meanie, running on the 18350 Aspire. I personally like blue output better, but the greenout seemed like the way to go and I haven’t done anything like that before lol.

Can anyone comment on the objective/subjective differences between all the NW options? Ideally I like pure white or a little rosy with high CRI. No purple to yellow transitions. Or should I wait til better emitter, probably Nichia, is introduced. Most recent purchases have been Nichia. Or if this has been discussed at length earlier, please point me in right direction. Thanks and Cheers!

No!
You need a sampling frequency 5 to 10 times of 15kHz
Nyquist is only for pure sinus forms and PWM is more rectangular form. With only double, you don’t know what you’re measure

Of course, I meant 30kHz is necessary, but not a sufficient condition.

As it stands right now, none of the emitter options is really satisfactory for me. The Nichia is too cool and has too low CRI. Both the XP-G2 3D and 5D has a purple corona and yellow spot.

If I were you I’d buy the 219c and if you don’t like it reflow to high CRI LEDs. Or if you don’t know how, send it to someone who can.

the 219C in the D4 are pretty White. Also under the quad optic the bean pattern remains uniform in color to the edges.
I don’t have an XP-L HI version to comment or compare. But that might be another option as White. Xpl Hi do pretty good under an optic.

Does the XP-G2 D3 still have a purple corona at 600 to 1000 lumens?

Most of my usage would be around 600 and maybe bumped up to 1000 lumens.

Yes, it has the purple corona all the time. Regardless of output level.

Oh man.

What are the tint snobs that prefer the rosy 4000K to 5000k swapping these out with?

BTW, tint snob is a compliment. :+1:

If you want rosy I’d say 219b. But I still haven’t tried my 3D with frosted optics yet maybe it’ll make the tint better.

Thanks.219b be able to handle the high current of this driver?

It shouldn’t be a problem. But the output would be much lower than it would with 219c. Hopefully more knowledgeable members can chime in here.

The 219B will work but may not really like the heat that this light produces. The Vf is just as low as the 219C so it draws just as much current (15+amps), and with lots of extra heat stress because of the small host. I’d say 219C is the safer bet.

The N319 has a slightly warm tint, nice round beam with few artifacts (kinda have to spin it around looking at a white wall or ceiling to see the standard quad optic stuff)

At lower levels the overall tint is nice, there’s that off color hot spot when cranked up but it’s not much of a big deal when using it especially outdoors. It’s nice to have the cooler running light, 4 219 C’s on a 20700 is pretty intense. It’s noticeable how much longer it takes to really start heating up, so the 319 has merit in the big picture.

Picture from a previous post :

D4 Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92 (left) X5 Nichia 219C 5000K (right)

I use to love the 5000K tint, but now the Nichia 219C 4000K tint looks more neutral to me.

That’s what I want 219c 4000K. Looks great!