As it stands right now, none of the emitter options is really satisfactory for me. The Nichia is too cool and has too low CRI. Both the XP-G2 3D and 5D has a purple corona and yellow spot.
If I were you I’d buy the 219c and if you don’t like it reflow to high CRI LEDs. Or if you don’t know how, send it to someone who can.
the 219C in the D4 are pretty White. Also under the quad optic the bean pattern remains uniform in color to the edges.
I don’t have an XP-L HI version to comment or compare. But that might be another option as White. Xpl Hi do pretty good under an optic.
The 219B will work but may not really like the heat that this light produces. The Vf is just as low as the 219C so it draws just as much current (15+amps), and with lots of extra heat stress because of the small host. I’d say 219C is the safer bet.
The N319 has a slightly warm tint, nice round beam with few artifacts (kinda have to spin it around looking at a white wall or ceiling to see the standard quad optic stuff)
At lower levels the overall tint is nice, there’s that off color hot spot when cranked up but it’s not much of a big deal when using it especially outdoors. It’s nice to have the cooler running light, 4 219 C’s on a 20700 is pretty intense. It’s noticeable how much longer it takes to really start heating up, so the 319 has merit in the big picture.
Words of Wisdom…
……within a relatively short period of tests with my experimental D4 (with Nichia 219b sw40 9050 - 93 CRI)
one of the leads to the stock MCPCB easily managed to relieve itself.
I assume you are going to buy from Mountain Electronics LLC ? I am sure he can make one for you, either reflow on the Noctigon MCPCB or on his own MTN Quad MCPCB, try and send him a PM he is RMM on this forum.
Yes, the 219B makes exact the same amount of heat as the 219C, so the ’ unsoldering capability’ should not be different.
The difference is that at 4A per led, the 219C is still quite happy (max is at 6.5A) while the 219B is right at its maximum output, and this is measured with the led extremely well heatsinked, which is not happening in the small D4.
Quite worrying btw that you guys managed to get the leads unsoldered. You did nothing to circumvent the thermal management when this happened?
I don’t think there is anything to worry about, yet. I’m pretty sure that mine did that because I used too much heat when changing the mcpcb as the gold plating on the LED pad came loose in about 6 seconds after turn on.
I love the 219b, the 4000k may be my No1 fav of the nichias. In fact most of my nichias are 219b’s , still i have a good few 219c’s in 4000k and 5000k flavours. The 219c 5000k in the D4 i really like. Sometimes its an advantage to have a tint free beam. The slightly warmer colour temps can change lighter colours, be them whites,creams etc . The 219c 5000k keeps colours accurate to my eyes, without any exaggeration/pop!(all subjective though).
At night, tired eyes, a little warmer beam is welcomed. But when i am wanting accurate colours, maybe cables or for pictures, the 219c comes out above the 219b 4000k for me personally. Again subjective, no rights or wrongs………………just depends on the application for my preference.