[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

:smiley:Thank you Mr. Scott!!! :wink:

I love that “simple answer”…… :+1:
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:wink:

Hi, please could you erase my second unit? It was for a friend but he isn’t interested now… so I’m still interested in my first unit

Anthon 129 331

Could you please take me off the list for my second light. #415 on the main list.

I still want one, but only 1.

Thanks!

New beam-shot. I swapped out the prototype’s cool-ish LED with a 3A-bin neutral white (the production units will also come with neutral white emitters):

Original LED:

Both shots were done using 5 s exposure, manual white balance, ISO100. Distance to tree is 150 m / 500 ft.

At first I wasn’t sure I agreed with calling it “Giggles”… but looking at Giggles next to other lights I think you’re right. That’s it’s name: The BLF Giggle Thrower, or Giggles for short. :smiley:

I think you’re probably right, and it likely doesn’t need more than it already has… but I could probably patch in more detailed thermal regulation (copy/paste from the D4 v2 code) if it’s needed, or you could too. :slight_smile:

With the GT’s mass-to-power ratio though, it’s probably fine.

what are we looking at for the final numbers
1.1 ? 1.2 ?
sure hoping its more than that on the finished product
theres modded tn42s running around out there ,with over a mill lux, and at half the size of the gt to boot

Isn’t it possible to put CW leds in several lights?I think there are enough members who prefer those leds.

Well it is really interesting, CW gives higher numbers but in all but the ideal circumstances NW shows more to the user.

It is well known that the NW tints are preferred by most who have seen it side by side with CW.
Yet of course “most” =/= “all” :wink:

It is possible although it would add a fair amount of complication to the GB with the risk of people getting the wrong tint.

Like Miller said, With a thrower like this a cooler LED will give a bit higher readings on the lux meter due to the non-linear way it reads light tints yet in the real world you can easily see further with a warmer LED.

This is due in part to refraction in the air scattering blue light more then red (the same reason the sky is blue). This does several negative things.

Firstly is disperses the light quicker before it reaches the intended target.

The scattered light returns to your eye and washes out your vision making it much harder to see long distances due to having to squint.

On top of this cool LED’s have much worse contrast and it makes it harder to see details. At range this becomes even more apperant.

The end result is I have seen multiple times that a thrower that has higher throw numbers and higher lumen output on the meter get beat by less powerful light in the real world.

For example my S70 had a cool white LED and had numbers that were roughly 10% higher then my L6 that had a neutral white LED.

When I tried them out side by side I fully expected the S70 to shine further and be brighter obviously. Turned out that it was exactly the opposite. The L6 won easily and unanimously among many sets of eyes. I was so shocked I even swapped the batteries thinking maybe the S70 cells were low. Nope, same result.

The L6 could easily see 10-20% further then the S70 in the real world and you could see more detail at range as well.

I sold my S70 shortly after this.

To be honest going with a Warm white LED would most likely net you even further real world throw even at the loss of output due to lower bins.

LOL, I was hoping more people would pick up on that but it seems most do not appreciate just how impressive this light is. You can’t help but give a little giggle when you turn it on and shine it at something that you figured had to be out of range and it looks like day!

Plus the giant light saber effect is pretty fun in itself.

good explanation TA!

OK then.Let’s see the neutral one.I wish you are wright. :slight_smile:

I can guarantee that he’s right!

Yesterday evening i was doing a nightwalk during my holiday (near the sea) and the nichia 4000k was so much nicer then the nichia 5000K.
Also tried my modded C8 with X6 driver and xpl-hi V3-1A, which was really bright, and gave a nice lightsaber effect, but the warmer tints really are nicer to view
You can distinguish details that much better. Makes a difference of night and day

The warmer the better for me.

Can we maybe not turn this thread into another CW vs NW flame war please? Thanks.

Well putting in another tint XHP35HI or dedomed XHP35 can always be done by people themselves.
DEL did it but the large ledboard needs a lot of heat to do it :wink:

He is not joking about the mcpcb. It is a beast.

I tried using the hot air gun but got bored after several minutes of heating and still no reflow.

So I broke out a propane blowtorch, that did the trick.

Warning, if you try to do it this way, be VERY careful, it is very easy to overheat things and damage them. Heat from a good distance away and only till the solder just start to reflow, then pull the heat away quick.

sounds like this mcpcb is not typical, maybe a spare is good to have