have you tried lowering the Thermal Configuration to match your hands preference?
So many people are complaining about how hot the light gets, and it has a user configurable thermal sensor…
Why doesn’t anybody use it to make it not burn your hand?
I really like the 100% regulated output level. At around 150 lumens it’s approximately between levels 3(80 lumens) and 4(240 lumens) on my E2L, S2, and BLF A6 which are my most used modes. I have 7 modes enabled on all of them counting moonlight the S2 and E2L using Bistro.
I have a question about perceived brightness that came to me in my sleep. I understand that to double what the human eye perceives you need an exponential increase in light, but when using floody optics where the output is less dense, thus less bright to the human eye, does that even out the correlation between perceived brightness and lumens?
Thanks for the info. I am wondering the classification of D1, D1S and D7, correct me if I am wrong,
So D1 is a small sized balanced light, not as much throw as C8,
and D1S is going to have a bit more throw than D1,
and D7 is going to be a flood light like D4, but with 7 emitters.
Are there any plans on other Dx?
Added a little DC FIX to mine and the partial squareness is almost entirely gone and it’s a tad bit floodier. My approximating shoebox doesn’t see any more light loss than whatever 1 of my “calibrated” lumens is worth at 100% 7135. I also tried melting/burning it off with repeated turbo runs with no failures. Now I can hold off from buying more optics for the time being.
I picture the D7 being very reminiscent of the DQG Tiny. As my anticipation heightens I’m hiding my credit card.
Yes, D1 and D4 tubes are interchangable, meaning D1 can also use the 18350 tube to become a tiny thrower.
D1 around 40Kcd, 1*XP-L HI, ultra small body, slightly bigger than D4 as it can be seen above, true all arounder for size and throw
D4 around 120Kcd,1*XP-L HI, excellent throw, small body