Uniquefire UF-1405 - A worthy zoomy?

Can I buy a separate pill for the 1405?

You are partially right.

Yes the windmill is white and yes i know it is there.

The fact remains that without me shining on it i can not see anything, not even the wings turning
When i shine on it i can clearly see the wings moving.

ofcourse it is stretching the limits of what is visible and what is not.
another windmill is at 1335 meters and that one lights up a lot more

if only that damned XP-G2 would have a lower Vf i could even push it more.

i guess if Cree does not develop a new led i reached the limits.

The LD2 driver is very nice and helps a lot.
I know that i can direct drive the led and do not need a driver at al but connecting a XP-G2 led directly to a 50 amp battery scares the hell out of me.

Yes,

http://www.gearbest.com/diy-parts-and-tools/pp_194381.html

the original however is a bit thicker

original 27 grams
gearbest pill 20 grams.

should not make a big difference as long as the pill is able to transfer the heat to the tube

The 1504 is the same only with a tube which can hold 1 battery
I am using a thick rod of copper which act as a 26650 spacer.
who knows if they start making 7 volt leds with extremely high output and very low square surface then i am good to go with the 1405.
Also the 1405 seems to have a better visual ratio(eg it looks like a flashlight)

Thanks Gravity! :slight_smile: ( I’m embarrassed, hank posted a link previously, thanks to hank too.)

Does anyone know what is the max driver height that will fit in the UF-1405? I want to try to fit the 17mm MTN-MAXlp HP into this light with a XHP35 HI. There is two option for the inductor type (standard or Coilcraft) and I wasn’t sure which one fits.

I measured at one point but I can’t remember, but my 1405 has one of those drivers in it now (the coilcraft one). Fit with tons of space (that I filled with thermal putty). The spring they come with seems a bit shorter than the massive stock one so two protected batteries fit, just, about the only light these batteries fit in.

Perfect, I will try the coilcraft one. I will try to fit those thermal cubes in it since that is all I have lol.

I plan to use 4x 26350 battery in it, so hearing 2 protected batteries fit is good news. Thanks!

Well I think I either blew the driver or the LED in my 1405, so i ordered another driver, XP-L HI V2 3A and a XP-G2 S3 3D. Anyone know how the XP-G3 S5 3A would work out on this light? BTW, the driver I’m using is the MTN-MAXlp HP at 5.1 amp.

The XPG3 will not be as bright as the XPL HI. In an eagle eye X6, the XPG3 direct drive (~7A) got 58kcd. The XPL HI at ~5.5A got 71kcd.

A sliced XP-G3 might be pretty good, considering dedoming them is complicated….

Slicing or dedoming does not increase the throw for the XPG3 as much as other LEDs.

Sliced, it is probably close in throw to the XPL HI, but at a larger current.

I figured it would be in the same area as the XP-L HI but forgot about the higher power use, so yeah XP-L HI is probably the way to go.

Well after a while of playing around with this light, the switch blew out. Anyone know a place in the US that has a replacement switch? I was looking at DX.com us warehouse and I saw this. http://www.dx.com/p/replacement-mode-clicky-switch-for-501b-l8-flashlight-black-silver-219024#.WZDslVVlD-A
Is this compatible?

Wow. Can’t believe this light is 3 years old already.

Autobotguy, I’ll have to open mine up and see what is in it. I do recall it has some funky setup with a spring and brass button, and the brass button is like half a mile away from the switch. I also recall my output doubled after drilling through the button and filling with solder.

Or….does anyone know of a switch end that will fit this flashlight?? Something that I can just screw on the end.

My attempt at a 1405. I used a 1S fet driver with a home made spacer. The led is an old school XP-G2 with small die. Not sure of the bin or tint but seems to be in the 2 range.

110 yards.

I measured my switch, and the one you have in your DX link should work. Also, this one from MTN should do the job as well, but you would have to solder it onto the board.

Sadly the switch board off of DX was sold out, so I just bought some switches and springs from Mtn Electronics. Hopefully will have them this week and have the light back up and running this weekend. _

Tried to solder in the new switches from Mtn Electronics and sadly it looked like the switch board’s VIAs were toast. I ordered some new replacement switch boards from lightmall and after 2-1/2 weeks I got them in. Slapped the switch board in and BLAMO, ridiculous amounts of blinding light. To my surprise the switch boards included Omten PBS-101 switches! Now to solder in some copper wick to the switches spring to help with power transfer resistance. _