What did you mod today?

I know that some companies use white leds, others mix of color leds, and all have achievements.
Im interested in ways of measuring, calculating and comparation leds with wide and narrow spectrum range. How to get this umol/s and umol/J values? How to isolate narrow strip from full spectrum wide led diagram and get right values? (I suppose that some special glass/plastic pieces that can pass through narrow range are needed.)

Finally started on modding my Haikelite MT03 I bought back in May. After tearing it down, discovered couple issues.

One dab of grease, only covers about 50% underneath the 3 LED's, plus jagged wire holes:

Tarnished up copper:

Not only jagged edges, but the wires were pinched on an edge of the housing, so they tore when removing them (I hope it was upon removal...):

These are the screws holding down the MCPCB. They look ok, but they don't tighten - threads in the shelf are stripped:

Here's the wire shredder and pincher:

MCPCB feels pretty thin at 1.5 mm

for such a large one:

Lot a little solder balls:

This is after some work - used the rotary tool to drill out thise pinching edges, and angle cut those sharp edges off on the holes:

Reflowed the XHP70.2 P2 3B's,trimming off the yelloe covering on the corners. Dunno if will help, but I know KawiBoy said it improves the beam on dedomed LED's. Hoping maybe it will reduce the yellow halo, maybe?

The latest SRK LDO driver from HQ seems perfect for this mod. All I had to do was sand off the tabs on the edges, and it fits perfect under the heavy retaining ring. I'll just transfer the double springs over after reflowing the driver. I test fit the driver, did continuity tests and the grnd ring contacts perfectly.

With a 2S2P battery tube, it's a fairly easy mod, and love the bulkiness of the MT03 - still compact but more heat sinking I'm hoping, because the amps will sure get up there. I'll probably use a SIR404DP FET and a single 7135. The HQ driver is very flexible and versatile for configuring it in various ways.

If you use a wavien collar then it becomes nearly invisible thanks to the reflected die image and white material around the die.

Interesting…

All early Vinhnguyen(famous CPF moder) mods were don with AA adhesive. But they were applied very thinly and under hard press on classic cree leds(xpg2, xml2).

The problem with osram leds is that you probably can’t give them hard enough pressure that will squeeze excess off AA and stick it firmly to pill for better heat transfer cause it will start making contact with pill anyway and puuf! I tried that kind of pressure on 4715as and poof happened… Method I use now for Osram IR are gentle circular moves, and only pressure is pressure from tweezers so I actually feel when AA starts spreading under dtp board. I don’t see or measure any performance drop on that kind of builds but they are only up to 2A.

@l.i.
Yes, the AA layer was much thicker than it would have been if I could just press it down firmly, it shorted if I did that. Perhaps someone will manage to get the layer thinner still without shorting it, but in my case with resulting heat sag the Flat Black looses the competition with the dedomed XP-G2. I doubt even if the heat sag is better than if I used a non-DTP board.

The trick will probably work much better in a mod with one of those chunky Maxtoch boards: more surface area to transfer the heat, and if the host allows lapping the upside of the pill so that both surface are nicw and flat, you can make a nice thin layer of AAA.

Does it have any sense to try with kapton tape?

I can imagine that a AAA layer can be made thinner than Kapton tape and then, AAA is at least designed to transfer heat better than average, while Kapton tape AFAIK is not designed for heat transfer at all.

I have no clue what AA or AAA stuff is or even why it's being discussed, but before we get to AAAA I thought someone, somewhere might be interested in the MT03 info and mod?

Sorry Tom for ignoring your MT03 work :innocent:
From the beginning I’m not at all into the Haiklite flashlights (don’t like the chunky designs), but considering that it is a rather new brand and seems to be founded by enthousiastic and knowledgable people, it is a pity that they do not have their production method and QC under control. Among the other faults, a ledboard that is not flat on its shelf is an easily avoidable (flattening the shelf should be the very last machining step) and unforgivable blunder because it directly affects the performance in such a high powered light.

XHP70.2’s with that driver is a great update! Waiting for finish and numbers :slight_smile:

I've been disappointed with the QC as well coming from them, but I'm lik'n the chunky design more and more. Mass and surface area are the two big issues with high amps, so they got the mass part down pat, as long as I can fix up the other stuff . I have 2 other Haikelite on order, the TK35 and SC01, and planning on getting the MT07S.

What I like bout what I'm seeing is easy modding - nice driver retaining rings, standard size drivers in width and thickness, easy modding for the LED's and battery setups, etc.

Made some SST40 led testing so I ended up with a Convoy C8 with TA17 driver, SST40 N4 BA dedomed led, AR coated glass lens, bypassed springs, 8,6A current in turbo, 2000 lumens, 136 Kcd and 738m throw :smiley: In a C8 it is insane!

Beamshots Zozz? Sounds like a pretty awesome smallish dazzler…

I got 3 of those on the way from KD. Those are pretty nice #'s, specially the lumens for a dedomed LED that throws almost as good as the best dedomed XP-G2's, I think. Didn't know you can get that many amps out of one. Might just put them in a SRK. What do you think of the tint after dedoming, and the beam pattern?

Hhmm, for that price, might order a bunch more.

Ohhh - and these are "only" N4 bins. There's 2 higher bins listed in the specs, but who knows if they will ever happen (N5 and P2).

Just a really crap phone pic I have. ISO3200, S: 1/17s, F: 2,20

Dang y’all!
Now I too have an order from KaiDomain… where does it ever end? lol

The dedoming wasn’t clean as on cree leds but the tint doesn’t shifted very much. Overall I like it. And it is cheap.

Which method did you use in the de-doming process?

Upside down on some wires in regular 95 octane petrol. It took 3-4 hours and a bit of picking with a needle and falled down. After that cleaning with alcohol rinse and a needle under magnifying glass.



First attempt at XHP Soup, HOT fluid de-doming (tried 2 different fluids, the second fluid performed better) XHP35’s 50’s and 70’s all meat no veggies! :smiley:

Brand New $8.00 Garage Sale Crock pot, so far soooooo gooooood! :wink:

I have seven SST40’s and a bunch of the W2’s from Kaidomain http://kaidomain.com/p/S026966.Cree-XP-L-HD-W2-1B-White-6000K-6500K-LED-Emitter-1-pc

Along with more top Binned XHP35’s HI E4-1A’s and Old Style P2-1C 70’s to do next……with a stronger fluid……

Like most days, I modded code today.

I made sort of a cooperative multitasking toolkit with event callbacks and a finite state machine, to make it easier to create e-switch light UIs.

It works on tiny45 and tiny85, and it should be reasonably easy to add support for other MCUs later. Most of the hardware details are abstracted out to allow interfaces to be portable across different types of drivers.

I call it Spaghetti Monster.

I probably shouldn’t be allowed to name things.