TK's Emisar D4 review

That is not the HI version. So it’s not that impressive.

Question, which emitters will benefit from the Mountain Electronic board that changes the angle of the LEDs? I want to possibly do this if there is an advantage. Thank you!

The Carclo optic is most efficient with the XP-G2 emitter, so the de-domed variant gives better throw vs an HI. It’s not always about absolute lumens, but of course the XP-L2 would be the way to go there.

Don’t let your fellow Texans hear you say that.

Just in case anyone in USA needs aspire 1100mah 18350 batteries($4.55) for your D4 shorty, and doesn’t want to wait for the slow boat ride, Mountain got theirs in stock today and they usually ship/receive very fast…

jmo

Well, it’s not. My son wanted to show me what may have been an ant bite on his knee, tried to light it up with the Jacob A60 I gave him for his birthday. Couldn’t see squat, with that laser hot spot on his knee! lol

I noticed that the standby current on my D4 is 5ma is that correct?

That cannot be correct, hint, read the OP, should be like 250 times less.

The D4 doesn’t go into standby mode until a few seconds after the light appears to shut off. Measure a few seconds longer to see the actual standby current.

Yes you are correct and i confirm that it went to sleep mode few seconds later and the current drop to 24.5μA, Nice almost nothing.

thanks.

FWIW, the standby delay is fixed in my new code project.

If I understand correctly, the delay was there to allow for handling of trailing input events, to make sure the LED was off and the switch wasn’t still pressed. But that’s all automatic now so it doesn’t need to wait.

Pretty much all of them.

Changing the angle of the LEDs eliminates the square corona produced by the Carclo optic. I’ve tried XPG2, XPL HI, and Nichia 219C with both boards and confirm that Richard’s offset star produces a better looking corona with all three.

The Mtn board doesn’t completely eliminate artifacts or weird corona shape… but it does help rather a lot. It basically gives you 16 dim flower petals instead of 4 bright ones.

Right, and the Nichia 319AT looks nice from that design as well.

Is this a correct translation?
FWIW
“For what it’s worth”
Another acronym for IMO

Yes, it’s stating an opinion or a small fact that may or may not make a difference for people to know, so, for what it’s worth, think about this….(FWIW)

Like, FWIW, this light has double o-rings on both ends of the battery tube. That may or may not matter to anybody, but there it is. :wink: (again, “this light” being just something I pulled out of the blue not necessarily meaning the D4.)

Pretty close, “For What It’s Worth” is usually more a slight correction about the facts rather than an opinion. As above, TK was simply pointing out that her new code has fixed what might be considered a bug in the code. It does not change how lights already released to the wild will behave (unless they are re-flashed).

IMO - The D4 is the greatest flashlight of all time, OF ALL TIME!

FWIW - US buyers will get a D4 sooner if they order from MTNElectronics rather than International Outdoor due to shipping times.

I just changed my grey 219c mcpcb for a XP-G2 S4 5D 4000k. Wow, what a fantastic tint! Very warm with a nice subtle rosiness. It is everything I had hoped the S4 3D would have. Definitely my favorite now.

Now I just need to reflow some 219c 90+ CRI, r9050, sm405, d240 on another mcpcb :smiley:
And after that I need to buy another one with XP-L Hi 5000k and another one to try dedomed XP-G2 S4 2Bs or S2 1D in it. In the end I’ll probably end up with 5-6 D4s :person_facepalming:

This solar force clip works after removing some material from the interior of the ring.
I’ll need to grind off the unfortunately placed lanyard ring. Would’ve been better at 90° to the clip.
Oh yeah, the light doesn’t work with the clip on. I’ll need to either remove some stock from the cap or put a magnet under the board in the cap. Not sure if that board comes off easy so probably off the end of the cap. $10 off Fleabay.

Something going on with tinypic and can’t get flickr to embed. here’s a link.

Imgur

Another solution to make the light work while there’s a ring between the tube and tailcap is to add some wire in the tailcap. A paperclip can work, or copper wire if you have it.