Did you put the original side switch onto Richards driver or did it come with a side switch? The easiest thing to do wrong is connect the switch wires in the wrong place. No way to get em backwards or anything, just the wrong pads. In the past Richard wasn’t making this size with a side switch, I don’t know if he’s doing so now or not.
If you put the switch wires on his driver, can you tell us where you soldered them?
Edit: Nevermind, I saw your pictures. The main thing you should look at now is if you have a short at the reflector to the black contact on the mcpcb…
finally Richard respond me also and it wasnt the reflector, but in some way the negative wire on the LED did touch the copper side of the mcpcb…and there was a continuity between negative led and host.
I mesured the sotck L6 and the XHP70 N4 + FET MTN driver and i got 1.6x more lumens.
Since I just got my first L6 I’d like to do something… Could you guys help me with my shopping list?
I wan’t to use a sliced XHP70.2 with the SMO reflector for getting the most throw and lumens possible.
1) SMO Reflector
2) XHP70.2 P2, 4000K
3) Liitokala 26650 (are they the best I can get? The last 26650 I bought was the KingKong about 3 or 4 years ago…)
4) Driver: I’d like to have Narsil, high current and a lighted side-switch. AFAIK Lexel doesn’t build the TA-drivers any more? Some other source I could get them from?
5) which board/led’s and rubber domes do you guys use for the lighted side switch?
Apart from that… anyone thought about making the head out of copper (this light is just to light ) and/or build a tailcap with usb-carging? (cell balancing could be a problem?)
I meant just this LED. Normally slicing works, but these new Cree LEDs (XP-G3, XHP50.2, XHP70.2) are different. It doesn’t have the same effect as with the older Crees.
AFAIK you can just ask Lexel for a TA driver for your L6. since he is German as well, shipping will not be any problem.
The other items you are talking about will probably not give you that much more light,
Good cells are indispensable though.
I’ve got a whole write up on how to do this in my signiture.
Lexel can get you a driver.
Simon at Convoy can get you a translucent side switch.
Liitokala are definetly good. I’ve got the blue and the newer ones are black, but they all perform about the same. I’m getting 17.3 amps at 30 seconds.
It’s too dangerous to have built in charging with series cells. Just get a fast charger. I’ve got the Xtar Sv2 rocket which can charge 2 26650 at 2 amps each. It makes for quick charging. Sometimes they are on sale. I got mine for about $19.
Keep in mind that slicing the dome always looses you lumens, but usually creates a smaller hotspot which gives more distance. I tried this on a xhp70, but didn’t like the loss of lumens. I prefer the dome on. I kept the dome on my 70.2 as well. I haven’t done any lux measurements to see what the distance is, but with such high lumens, 8,000 maybe, the range is very good. I wouldn’t be surprised if it was over 900 or 1000 yards.
Keep in mind though that when your making 120 watts the light will heat up fast. I only use full power on rare occasions like testing or if I need max distance. Maybe 30 seconds at most with full cells and full power.
It also tends to burn through braided copper spring bypasses. I had to use a thicker copper wire for a bypassed tail spring.
I been thinking about building this what do you think about it, Convoy l2 with 20mm mtnmax buck driver,xhp35hi e2,and using 4 26350’s or aspire 18350’s with spacers.It says 2.5 amp max on 12v how many lumens should that be good for?
I have several XHP35’s running the MTN.MAX and LD-2 M2 at 3amps 4-26650’s 4-26350’s 4-26500’s 4-18500’s 4-18350’s but not in my L2 anymore.
I have the Mtn.Max 3amps drivers in my Jaxman X6 (E4 1C HI) Convoy L6 (E4 1B HI) Trustfire X7 (E2 1A HI) Nitecore MH20GT (De-domed HD E2 1A) Trustfire T90-2 (E4 1B HI) Lumintop SD75 (E4 1B HI) TN42 (De-domed HD E4 3C) and a TK61 (HD E4 3C) but they are running the LD-2 M2 Linear driver at 3amps.
So 2.5amps is relatively SAFE! Good Luck with the focusing!!
) and/or build a tailcap with usb-carging? (cell balancing could be a problem?)
POOF! I gave up on them, I still like the old 50’s better for throw!