To be honest I don’t remember for sure, but I don’t know why I would’ve deviated from TAs parts list, in which he says this:
R1 : 19.1 k (220 k for e-switch lights, 360k for 2S setups like the L6 driver)
R2 : 4.7 k (47 k for e-switch lights)
Since I built this out for Narsil since in the beginning I’m sure I would’ve used the e-switch options. I’ll have to pull it back apart later tonight and check to be sure. Might be easier to ask what values I should be using so I can just swap them when I’m in there, if needed.
Think that HEX file was built for 360K/47K, or equal ratio. Boy, can't even remember posting it . Little bizy - just got a MT03 putting out 27K lumens with running NarsilM, but still gotta work out issues with the 7135 - it's a FET+1 config.
Yea, just checked - definitely built for 360K/47K. The LVP has been pretty solid. I'm running a MT03 and Convoy L6 with the same setup, but anything is possible. Wonder if some other issue. I'd say about 80% of issues I address lately with Narsil/NarsilM is hardware - there's just lots of things that can go wrong. I try my best to check everything step by step - definitely I buzz out every pin on every chip. Found many things, avoided many headaches. I always pre-check the driver on the bench too - rig up power and an e-switch. Takes extra time, but saves in the long run. I even came across a bad ATtiny85 couple days ago, which was a PITA to say the least - removed it tried programming - still wouldn't take, then reflowed a fresh one back on - rock solid then.
Ohh - be sure to check your resistors after reflow - you can measure the resistance on board. This tests not only the part, but if it's a bad reflow, sometimes solder connects under the chip. I've found this a few times - most of the time simply re-applying the hot air to melt the solder does the trick. This happens a lot to me - probably using too much solder.
Thanks, I’ll put it back apart in the next couple of days and check it. I try to be thorough checking after a reflow because I almost always put too much solder paste somewhere or other. I’m bad at judging that stuff I’ve probably just got the wrong resistors on the board, no big deal. I appreciate the help.
Someone else has this question/problem the other day. Strobe modes work just like mode sets, you have to click through them quickly. If you pause on one, it locks in. So if you are holding for over 1 second or so on the first strobe before clicking, then it probably locked in, so the next click will turn the light OFF. Just like mode sets you can reverse navigate by click&hold, regardless of it being locked in or not. In the other case, the user was pausing too long on the first strobe. Let me know if that's the issue. Thanks!
If I accidently let it lock on a mode like beacon, could I reverse nav through every mode? It seems like it only goes back to the first strobe then turns off.
Should nav back thru all strobe modes. Press&hold til mode changes, release the switch, then press& hold again. It's not press&hold continuously. Some other light UI's work like that to automatically change modes, sort of like a slow stepped ramping.
I implemented the navigation the same way Werner did it originally. It was called the "Werner UI". My only unique twist to it was to add the timeout for locking in a mode, so once locked in, a simple click turns the light OFF. With the Werner UI, you had to nav forward all the way, or nav backward all the way to turn the light OFF.
2S is for 2 seconds, 10S for 10 seconds. This is the default Q8 setup, NarsilM v1.0.
So of you click thru to get to 2 sec beacon, then press&hold for biking (release the switch as soon as the mode switches), then press&hold again for police. Once you nav back, you can nav forward before the lock-in time.
I just have to remember that once I get into the first strobe mode I can only click the button 4 times, any more than that will turn the light off. Also, if I try to reverse past the first strobe, it will turn off.
So now I just aim for the middle. 2 x 2 then 2 clicks. Then I have room to move backwards and forwards. Neat trick. Pretty complicated, though. Lol
Well, combo of Setups.h, RegisterSettings.h., and maybe Channels.h.
I'd set OUT_CHANNEL to 2, then edit up the RegisterSetting.h to match up signals to pins. Not sure how further to go, that might be enough, but I'd have to carefully review the ATMEL specs to be sure that all works out. Might have to do some mods to functions in Channels.h.
Certainly ramping and mode sets should work out as-is with the OUT_CHANNEL of 2 setting.
Ooops, probably definite you have to change the initialization code right in the beginning of main(). Critical initialization of ports for I/O and PWM's is there.
#if OUT_CHANNELS == 3 // Triple Channel
// Second PWM counter is ... weird (straight from bistro-tripledown.c)
TCCR1 = _BV (CS10);
GTCCR = _BV (COM1B1) | _BV (PWM1B);
OCR1C = 255; // Set ceiling value to maximum
#endif
Comment out the #if and #endif, so the code is executed. That looks like the only change you need to make in main(). This enables PWM on pin #3 I believe, which you need.
At low voltage I believe it blinks 3 times then reduces output. In ramping, can you press the button to return to the previous level or will it just turn off?
What happens when thermal protection activates? Any blinks or just a reduction in output? Can a single button press bump it back up or will it just turn off?
My batteries were low and it blinked 3 times then reduced power. I clicked the button once and it went back up in power. I tried to video it, but I never could get it to repeat what it did earlier. It just turned off. So I’m confused.