My Convoy L6, lighted switch, TA FET driver plus mods

It’s right here. 3.2mm by 1.6mm 1/4 watt. I’m not sure what the 1206 refers to. Either number works.

It’s 3216 or 1206. It’s the same dimension, one is in metric, other in imperial.
3.2 mm * 1.6 mm or 0.126 in * 0.063 in

thanks, i’ll order some resistor and try to boost the current on my L6 a little.

I think i’ll post my question here Jason.

well i ended up ordering TA driver everything went well, the only thing that i haven’t done is the indicator LED, i am still waiting on translucent side button from simon. i’ll ask when i hit a snag, but basically the unused 2 pads at the back of the switch board each one powers each LEDs so i just supply + to each unused pad?

That’s correct. You can split the wire to run to each or use one wire and add a bridge to the other pad.

Didn’t you just ask about how to remove the side switch cover? I’m wondering if you added the LEDs yet?

So i just use the cable provided by Lexel (the one with 472 resistor soldered)?

Yeah i did ask about removing the side switch on Lexel’s thread, but i managed to figure it out myself by try and error.

btw. with full battery it draws 10.5A not sure how many lumens that is.

oh i forgot what wire gauge is recommended and still fits the hole in the board?

It’s supposed to be a 4700 ohm resistor. 47 then a 2 with a line under it. An actual 472 would burn out the led. Since you plan to run 2 leds in parallel you might want a 10k to 30k resistor.

What emitter and batteries are you using? How are you measuring?

18ga silicone wires fits and will give high output.

No I haven’t, since i dont have the translucent switch yet but I will solder the led tomorrow.

I am still using the original Convoy L6 NW emitter and Efest 4200mah batteries (metallic purple). Measured using a single piece of 11cm 10awg cable at the tail and DC clamp meter (Uni-T UT210e)

Okay, that sounds about right. I was getting about 12 amps with my liitokala cells. Those efest may be costing you a little, but no big deal. The NW is always going to be lower lumens than CW, so I’d guess about 5,000 lumen. CW should be about 5,500, so I knocked the output down a little to compensate.

Yeah i am really happy the way it is now. i think going higher would just produces more heat with little increase in lumens. Throw was 78kcd and now 99kcd. not bad i think.

Oh i forgot to tell you that i am using a thin 24gauge LED silicon wire as i need to lengthen the cable so that the driver is easier to work with and i dont have smaller than 16ga, could that also cost me amps?

Yeah, that can do it.

Thanks for the Help Jason. :+1:

My convoy L6 does feels like Giant D4 now.

There’s a lot more features though. Like memory in ramping mode. Did the D4 have batt check, 3 fast clicks? I like that one.

Jason i wonder do you ever sleep? i just woke up few hours ago and fetch kids to school and here you are still answering question. :smiley:

Got to try that memory in ramping mode thingy I read the narsilM manual, but to be honest i am rather bewildered i am sure i’ll get the hang of it someday and yeah D4 also have batt check since it is basically a scaled down narsilM right?

As far as ramping and normal operation goes it feel similar to D4, i just feels that D4 output is severely limited by its size i dont have that feeling with Convoy L6.

I usually sleep days and work nights. Plus it’s my day off so nothing much to do.

A lot of stuff was cut off of the D4 firmware. Memory in ramping is exactly what you think. You turn on the light, adjust to the brightness you want, then turn off light. Next time you turn it on, it’s at the same level. I tend to use both of my sig lights at about 75% (?) of turbo. It’s almost full brightness, but run cooler and last longer. After that’s it’s click on, bam, click off. Over and over again.

I do security work at night, so I’m always using my lights.

Here’s my video on changing settings in NarsilM.

Here’s my video showing a few basic narsil stuff.

I’m gonna do another video showing all the features of Narsil soon.

ah i see no wonder :smiley: ,
I guess you have a perfect job for the hobby and that L6 sure fits the job nicely, i never found a really useful stuffs for my lights as i lives in the urban area and every corners are nicely lit up, i need to make an excuse to use them :innocent:

btw. my TA driver doesn’t have “indicator light” feature as the pin is currently use as voltage reference so i just use the LED side button instead as power on indicator just like you did. Now few more weeks for my transparent side switch from Simon to arrived.

the one using Supfire helps a lot.

thanks.

Yeah, I forget why sometimes. It’s because the 2S design needs that extra leg on the mcu to read actual battery voltage (not the lower voltage the LDO produces for the mcu to operate on). Jeez this stuff is technical. Lol

You can give up low voltage protection to have the indicator feature, but that’s not smart. Lvp is more important.

yeah that is true but you know we like LED even the small one. :wink: