Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

Hi emarkd,

thank you for this short review/how-to post!

Dot close to LED is ANODE mark, I forgot to add this note in description,just added it on WEB page.

Bubbling solder mask: I soldered FET and NTC with lead-free solder(40C higher melting temperature compared to Pb solder) without any problems. It seems temperature was too high for too long, and you can see in your second MCPCB picture that what used to be white silkscreen in now brown-almost invisible, that is a 100% sign temperature was way too hot.White silkscreen should stay white after soldering, even if it becomes yellowish, temperature was still too high.

I use hot plate with low thermal mass, and this gives me best soldering results. If you are going to order in the future, just send me PM before that, I will put some MCPCBs extra.

On LD-B4 "negative" is kinda unique, it's basically only shunt resistor between GND ring and wire, so resistance is indeed close to short.

To prevent potential shorts between wires and retaining rings, use "flush cut" type of pliers, I use Piergiacomi TR-30 pliers and they can cut very low, after cutting if leaves only 0.2-0.3mm tall solder joint.

http://www.piergiacomi.com/piergiacomi/en/products/hand-tools/285-taglio-raso-dettaglio.html#TR30

Also added installation instructions for ILC-1 on my web:

Installation instructions:
  • Unscrew flashlight tailcap and remove all original parts (tailcap button,washer,pcb with switch, retaining ring)
  • If not installed, solder spring on ILC-1 bottom side
  • Remove kapton tape from ILC-1 brass ring (protection from oxidation)
  • Insert translucent tailcap button into tailcap
  • Insert ILC-1 module
  • Screw original retaining ring back

Thanks for the input Neven. I agree it looks like I overheated my mcpcb. I don’t have any “good” equipment for reflow and just do it on my stovetop. Hard to regulate that. And while I do have a set of those “flush-cut” side cutters, they’re pretty old and dull and don’t bite like they used to. May be time to replace those. Anyway, my post was intended to give folks coming after me a few things to look out for, learn from my mistakes. :slight_smile: This driver setup is a really really good product and you should be proud of it.

I really do appreciate you offering to send me a new mcpcb even though the damage to mine is my own fault. That’s very nice of you and really good customer service. Its not necessary though. I will be ordering more from you in the next couple of days, once I plan out a few more builds using your parts, and can just toss an extra board in my order. That’s one of the cheaper lessons I’ve learned working on elecrtronics. :slight_smile: I would like to be able to order some of those single-emitter boards though. Any chance you’d be adding those to your web store anytime soon?


Mark

I will add single LED boards within 1-2day.

I do not understand,
If “2-12Amps possible by Adjusting current in UI ”

Why are there options for 3, 6, 9 and 12Amps version?

That confused me at first too. A single driver can’t go 2-12. There’s a 2-3 amp version, or 4-6 amps, or 7-9 amps, or 8-12. So if you order the 12 amp driver, it’ll only go “down” to 8, etc.

There’s a full chart on page 4 of these datasheet, here: https://led4power.com/download/4172/

2-12Amps is possible with LD-x4 series, not from single driver; 3A version is adjustable from 2A-3A, 6A from 4A-6A, 9A from 7A-9A, 12A from 8A-12A.

OK, I see

I have Ordered, 12A for 4XP, 9A for 3XP
Does it fit?

ILC-1 illuminated tailcap 480uA
How much brightness is there?(about)

Not sure about your driver question, but I can try on your second. I ordered a white tail at 240uA and find it way too bright. Its easily visible during the day and uncomfortable to look at in the dark. So I’ll be opening mine back up to dim it down considerably. No big deal, I expected to do a bit of tuning.

That said, this is a really personal issue and we don’t all like the same brightness. I’m sure there are folks who would prefer this one just like it is, nice and bright.

I'm not sure what do you mean by "does it fit"?

You ordered blue color, I just did little test, I have 400uA blue tailcap C8, it's still visible at 1000lux room illuminance if you look at it.

OK

I wish change “dim” to 120uA.

“does it fit”?
Suitable? appropriate? Good choice?
Sorry for my poor english again.

It does not matter.
about driver, keep 12A & 9A.

OK, I will set 120uA.

12A with 4XP,and 9A with 3XP is 3A per LED, which is pretty common on BLF.

One customer is asking does ILC-1 fit into BLF A6/Astrolux S1 tailcap, since I don't have any of those, does anyone know what is washer diameter? Is button diameter 16mm, or 14mm?

14mm

I tried it in my A6. Does not fit. The diameter of the switch is just barely too wide to drop down in there. The “can” on the outside makes it a really nice all-in-one drop-in piece but it also makes it slightly wider, too wide for the A6.

I'm considering to make Eagle eye X6 version of ILC-1(17mm diameter,14mm button), A6/S1 seem to have identical tailcap as EE X6 then.

If not too late, please do not solder FET and thermistor on MOSLED MCPCB.

OK, do you want one extra MCPCB as compensation for extra 1€ paid?

I’m not home to check at the moment but I have both of those lights. I’ll check this afternoon and let you know.

Yes, Thank you.