It could always be worse, you could have a mayor that insists that no matter what the governor nor FEMA nor NWS says about evacuating in front of a massive and slow moving hurricane, that you stay home and off the roads. I guess it’s safer to have to swim to higher ground (if your not disabled)(and you can swim) and wait someone else to evacuate you. There are a lot of hungry, thirsty, sand wet folks in Houston, but I doubt the mayor is.
I haven’t really kept up with this huge discussion, so if this is already well known information then I apologize for the double, but if you’re still looking for a clip option for this light check out this Overready. Yeah it may be a bit silly to put a $25 clip on a $40 light, but I think the D4 is worth it I did have to dremel it out just a bit inside; its slightly too narrow from the box, not too hard though. Also a spacer is required inside so the tailcap contacts the battery tube. A paperclip works well, if you don’t want to get too fancy with it. I’m sure there’s other ‘universal’ ~1” clips out there that would work too. I personally like this a lot better than a friction-fit clip.
Hmm, it may be a good idea if Hank looks at this picture, that clip looks very very good on the D4 :sunglasses:
As for the paperclip: I have an assortment of brass washers, with a hot solder iron you can solder a fitting one onto the tail PCB for a bit permanent solution of the shortened tail threading.
Not exactly sure which measurement you’re looking for so let’s just do it this way. If this doesn’t answer your question just let me know and we’ll try something else
I’ve got a roll of thick copper sheeting that I’ve used for various spacers and things before. If I wind up using this light as much as I expect to I’ll probably pull the tail apart and build the grounding ring up using some cut copper. The paperclip is doing the job right now though.
No argument from me. But I guess I find them worth it because I’ve put these clips on lots of lights. I mean at least they’re steel now. Back when they were made of titanium they cost twice this much
Does anyone make a primary (disposable, non-rechargeable) cell in the 18650 size?
I tell ya, we’re in the process of reinventing the flashbulb here.
I’d like to see these super-bright emitters built to use separate from the battery carriers — bolt the bright/hot part instead onto a big handheld heatsink, and connect that to a belt-pack power supply with a big copper cable. Then we could wave around the brightest possible light source without killing attached batteries by heat cycling.
I don’t think it would be a good idea.
The UI has a lot of things that you can make, and if you have 3 light with all different modes, you will get confused a lot.
I would love if the driver from the D4 would be free to buy…
That UI on a 12*XP-G2 King or so…
Updates should be done and a system/service put in place to update the drivers on previous lights if desired. I have about 35 flashlights with different UIs at home. We can handle an updated UI.
Only 35?
pfff n00b
I don’t have a problem with different UIs, but if UIs are 95% similar, you will get confused about which UI you have right now.
Also, I think the UI is really good. Most of the time you just need the ramping or the double-click 100% mode.
I have about 35 flashlights with different UIs at home. We can handle an updated UI.
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share your secret - what do you have, a filing system? With 100+ lights, I’m lost in a sea of UIs. Lights like the Nitecore EC11 are especially troublesome to remember
Yeah, been getting rid of a lot of lights. Picking out the most useful and getting rid of the Queens and anything that sits unused for more than a few months. Yeah, I have the Nitecore EC11 modified with a 4000k emitter. Selling that one too. Cool little light though!
here is another ~1000 lumen light, and its runtime graph Both the D4 and the PT-18 have similar runtime, once you factor the different mAh of each battery, ~1200 for the 18350 in the D4 and ~2600 for the 18650 in the PT-18
pic from uPZ is a link