I’m not sure what you’re asking here but the Smo reflector basically just focuses it a little better to give you a smaller hotspot and more throw. You practicaly can’t see any dark center with the Smo and 70.2. You only see it in photos if you reduce the exposure.
What i meant was, the SMO is cheap and will increase throw, and the 70.2 is around $13 but will it increase lumens with the same current draw? At the end both will increase candela.
I know that 70.2 have better high current handling and less prominent cross.
Okay, so you currently have the OP and xhp70. I thought you already had the 70.2.
I’m kinda iffy on the 70.2. You don’t get more output at the same current, but you do get that extra turbo output (from 12 amps up to 17 amps) at the expense of more heat and quicker battery drain. I definitely prefer the color of the cool white xhp70 to the cool white of the 70.2.
I bought these parts to try and build a thrower out of the L6. Why are you asking about them, are you also trying to get more distance?
yeah that is what i meant. With current setup (TA driver, OP reflector, XHP70 and 10.5A draws) i only got 99kcd so i was wondering if 70.2 would make much different.
oh btw does 70.2 have lower forward voltage? was the 17A draw possible because of that? hmm that is interesting.
Hi Jason,
thanks for the lighted side SW tutorial.
Ordered the L6 Fet driver from MtnE a couple weeks ago with the D4 firmware. I got 10.1A after 30sec in my DMM.
Only had some 3.3K ohm resistors so I made a series cluster of 4 and shrink wrapped it. Think it was 12.8K ohm. Side SW Purple (kinda blue) LEDs are pulling about 0.5mA. Perfect at night and still see a glow indoors.
Think he has the D4 listed now on a lot of DD drivers. It works well on the 2S I have to say.
Yes memory works and Batt check… 8 blinks… 4 blinks. LVP works but haven’t got too deep into the other SHtuff.
E-SW does have dedicated pads on driver but not marked + or -, so if you are going to used 1206 LEDs on the E-SW pad you gotta make sure you get it probed out. Follow your pictorial from there. Neg will show continuity to the outer ring. There was a tiny pad close to the POS wire hole that showed continuity to the + wire so I used it. No components there…
Sorry I didn’t take any pics of the driver. Richard actually has a good pic of the component side of the driver in his listing. I don’t want to use his bandwidth here.
OD of the driver was a tight fit. Had to file it slightly and after a few tries, I just hit it in with a flat punch.
I wonder how the D4 reacts to a lighted tail SW? I would think it may not care… might give it a go if I have a 20mm board… No joy on the 20mm and I can not order anything any more due to my situation.
Oh, and for this occasion I put my SMO reflector back in. Wasn’t fond of the pattern initially wile stock or resistor mod. it is different now on turbo.
The switch pcb has a common ground wire shared between led pads and the switch, so all you have to do is run power to the led through a resistor. Post #6 shows all this.
Are you using NarsilM or the older Narsil?
Only NarsilM can actually use the indicator function on the 2S drivers due to one of the mcu legs being able to switch between voltage monitoring and temperature sensing. The older Narsil could not switch and it needed 2 legs.
Lexel just reminded me that on the 2S drivers you have to choose between the lvp or the indicator feature. I forgot about this. If you chose LVP then the indicator feature won’t work. You’ll have to wire it to driver power so it’s on all the time. Meaning the switch light will go out when the tail switch is off.
Or you did not solder 7135-s on the spring side and use their atmel pin to control indicator led and the driver works as a fet+1 two channel driver. But it need some change in the firmware too.