Firmware, that’s the ticket… flashlights with firmware! 
Simply plug in the micro USB and reflash the firmware directly from the computer, like a DSLR. 
Precisely mu thoughts from today…include USB type C plug. Use it to:
- reflash the chip
- with a helper app, provide GUI configuration
- charge the battery
- turn the light to a powerbank
As to predictability, the light has better memory than I do. I often avoid turning it on with a single click and loosen the head before that, just in case it’s on turbo.
Also, I never know what direction will the ramping go.
That requires a much more capable MCU than we’ve been using for flashlights. An atmega chip can do it though.
There was an arduino-based light a few years ago, but it was expensive and kind of meh. There was also one with bluetooth for configuration, but it had physical design problems and the concept was never developed very far. Some recent driver designs use vias for programming pins so it can be reflashed acupuncture style without removing the driver, and requires no host modifications. That might be an idea worth exploring further.
That’s why I used different ramp controls in newer UIs. Hold to ramp up, click then hold to ramp down.
I made a reversing one about 3 years ago, but the way it often went the wrong direction always bugged me. So I had been meaning to change it, but I didn’t really touch e-switch code again until recently.
Can you buy tail caps separate? I’d like to mod one to fit on my keychain.
Just changed replaced my 3D Xp-g2 emiters with 5D’s. Man this tint is nice! Perfect light now.
Can someone explain me, what makes XP-L version is as much as $ 18 more expensive?
Has anyone compiled the complete UI documentation anywhere?
(including the tips’n’tricks posted hereabouts in responses)?
Got my light from RMM, but no docs with it.
pietros, the XP-L version costs more because XP-L emitters cost more. It’s not about the perceived value, it’s about the materials cost.
hank, the most complete documentation I’m aware of is … this thread. Sorry. 
The XP-L HI is $3-4 more per each than Nichia 219C or XP-G2 emitters. Multiply that by 4, select desired tint bins and there ya go. The domed XP-L HD won’t fit under the Carclo quad optics.
Surely someone here aspires to a career in editing documentation?
(P.S. — is there a way to download an entire thread without pagination, as a long text file? Then deleting everything not part of the desired end product becomes fairly easy to do)
It seems to me most everything is in the D4 UI V2 diagram. The only trick i heard of is to unscrew the tail cap to reset the memory to 100% 7135 level. How to properly set the step down temperature could use some additional explanations too. Is there much else?
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-4xp-mcpcb-nichia-nvsw219ct-r8000-d260-p-915.html
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-4xp-mcpcb-cree-xpl-hi-v2-3a-p-917.html
It’s only $ 7 different.
Not hating, just stating
$7@
> unscrew the tailcap to reset the memory
Ah, that was a gotcha! I’ve been unscrewing the tailcap to lock out the button, and suddenly was surprised to find the light won’t get more than slightly brighter, ramping went away.
Must be I’m falling into that memory setting.
Thanks for the reminder where to find the printed GUI chart.
Another please-remind-me — this driver has discharge protection so I can use unprotected cells, right?
someone not named hank?
I agree…
Here is a start… who is going next?
Feature index:
Basic operation
Regulated mode
100% 7135 mode (also double blink indicator)
Setting and reading out Thermal Config
Future Features not yet in the official UI version
ability to set high and low endpoints for ramping
Nominations for Most underused feature
Thermal Configuration
yes
We need a love child from the D4 and
aka the Lux-RC
Maybe then we can hold on to this hot rod?
Active cooling, now we’re talking!
Where can I find pricing info?
Something tells me it’s out of my league though…
Can we hope Hank will pick up some ideas? (the active cooling part)
If it makes you unhappy then vote with your wallet and don’t buy it. Pretty simple solution. Or take it up with Hank. By posting that here you’re discussing it with people not in the production loop. Don’t want to pay the extra $18? Then don’t.
It’s worth the extra $18 for 15 seconds more Turbo time!
Thermal Stepping Down question and separate ramping question.
Just got my Gray XP-G2 D4. Long story short, steps down and continues to step down from pretty low levels, even from cold, rested start. Ramped up to what I think to be about 600 lumens or so (comparing it to what’s supposed to be about 600 on my ZL SC62w), a very usable level IMHO. Light doesn’t get hot to the touch at all….but starts stepping down pretty quickly…and keeps stepping down about every 5-7 seconds until it gets in the 150 lumen range….NEVER even warm to the touch IMHO. I think I read that the regulation is of course basing it’s feedback on internal temps and so my “feel” on the outside isn’t directly proportional to the “need for stepping down”….but this seems a bit aggressive. Basically only giving about 1 minute or so of 600-800 lumen light.
The questions: Does this sound normal? Is there a way to adjust this to give longer mid lumen level or is that not safe?
Separate ramping question:
When I’m ramping up from off, there are 2 “flickers” in the process….like a quick blink…one at about 1/3 the way up and then one right before the brightest setting. When ramping down, only one “flicker” nearer the bottom end.
Is this normal?
Couldn’t find anything in the thread referencing it….so with these 2 behaviors I’m wondering if I may have a gimpy light.
These behaviors are with a freshly charged and rested Sanyo 18650 GA at 4.1V and then a Samsung 30Q at about 3.9V.
Thanks for any help!