Thank you 
I made a duplicate of the Titanium plate they put in my neck. I have a PDF document from the maker of the plate that lists a couple of dimensions, this let me size it based on the X-Ray of the actual plate itself. Never milled anything before, especially not on a lathe! Some of this was hand work, I thought it’d be somewhat easier on commercially pure grade 2, it wasn’t…
The very small slots I didn’t put in because my 2mm 4 flute bit wasn’t up to it. And I still should probably refine the “+” pattern windows, but that’s file work and I’m done today! 
I did it for a pocketable conversation starter. 
It weighs a mere 4 grams and isn’t as cut-out as the actual plate, so in reality the plate weighs even less than that. It’s 2.1mm thick, 1.5mm in the center, 18.4mm wide and 38mm long. This is an Xtend plate from Global Medical, made to be able to add an extension into the middle groove and the small slots are locators for this extension. (My Dr. is probably figuring more work will need to be done above the existing plate, hence, the add on style Xtend plate)
Their picture…. yeah yeah yeah, CNC machines rule!
Lol a 3.7V LED with 700mA and only 35-60mW luminous intensity?
Any aerious LED puts out 700-800mW at that power
Even a cheap Epileds is better and cheaper
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3W-3535-High-Power-LED-UV-Light-Chip-365nm-395nm-Emitter-Diode-Ultra-Violet-DIY-With/32762365038.html
I didn’t use a nichia UV led before but the output of this led to me looks good and illuminates things well
I think that the “80mw” was a typo in the description, Maybe ?
Of course I looked for a nichia led but couldn’t find one unfortunately
That’s so metal.
You are now officially Too Metal To Headbang.
I have 4 UV lights, each with a different emitter. 3 of them are Nichia. 1 is LED Engine LZ1. The top of the line Nichia was the most difficult to acquire. It’s not as obvious the differences between these 4 as I would have thought, especially considering the price of the top of the line emitter, but it sure cure’s optical adhesive in a hurry!
Convoy S2 18350 NVSU233A (this one has a weird Silicone add on dome from Nichia, works, but looks funky as it’s really big)
Copper X6 with NVSU333A
Jaxman U1 with NCSU276A
Solarforce L2M (18350) with LEDEngine LZ1 (this one has an AHorton aspheric)
The Nichia NVSU233B is also great, even less visible light output and more UV output
Only downside is the higher Vf
Modded a Thrunite TN-31 with a SST-40, already had the light with bypassed resistor mod and on turbo it gives the XHP-35 Hi led on the AceBeam K70 a run for its money. It’s blindingly bright!!!
Dangit TK, I was all prepped to rock out with some April Wine! (uh, 1979 head banger music?) [memory… sudden ancient flash of Alesha in her ’78 Trans Am with Lightning Rod shifters, literally head banging in the car, driving, to April Wine. Scared me! She was a bad driver when she was watching the road! And along with that memory, another time she …. nm… suffice it to say the police were involved and it wasn’t music.]
158 kcd awesome , Hey Sledge, whats the tail amps, ?
Thanks!
I haven’t tested it on a full cell yet, but I got 8. something with a cell with unknown voltage. I’ll check later today with a fully charged VTC6.
I built my first driver from scratch (well, from oshpark and a bag of parts) and it worked!
Even better, I got it to do 4-channel PWM for red, green, blue, and amber LEDs. With an e-switch to control it.
I had thought the 3rd PWM channel was weird, but no. The 4th channel is. The attiny85 doesn’t have direct support for 4-channel PWM (the hardware does channel 3 OR channel 4), so I had to do it semi-manually by chaining an extra interrupt off the PWM timer and using that interrupt to manually turn the 4th channel on and off.
Also, for some reason the 4th channel is inverted so 255 is off and 0 is full brightness. I’ll have to see about fixing that.
But anyway, woot! This means that soon I can start on the fun parts.
Nice TK !
Feels good to make your own drivers , especially when you can also create a new firmware for every flashlight
thought this would be a fun zoomie host to play with.
updated the stock triple color led to a single sst-40, driving it at 5.5A with a east-92 driver, powered by a littokala 26650.
What zoomie is that, solRNY?
I swapped 4x XP-L2 4000K 90CRI leds (from Mouser) into my black Emisar D4. A partly succes.
The jay:
- unlike XP-L’s, the XP-L2 fits under the commonly used Carclo optics (tight but alright)
- the beam is good. I have the XP-G3 version of this led in a Carclo triple and it has the intense yellow corona, the XP-L2 in combination with this type of TIR has a larger spot but also better blended tint.
- the output is great. Despite this high CRI version being just a U6 bin, it puts out 4300 lumen OTF at start-up, 3800 at 16 seconds when thermoregulation (set at max) kicks in. The current draw is 14.9 A with a 30Q at 4.11V, same current as my D4 219C version.
The meh:
- the tint is similar to the 4000K 90CRI XP-G3, so nothing rosy in there, on the green side of white. Still a matter of taste, the colour reproduction is good.
As a FYI, I also had a couple of 4000K 80 CRI XP-L2 leds from Mouser, bought a bit earlier, and that tint is simply wonderful. I tend to like them better in a flashlight despite the lower CRI.
Here is two white wall shots. Do not look at the actual tints, first because the pictures are made with auto whitebalance, and second my phone camera is damaged by UV-light so the center of each picture is brighter and slightly more pink than the edge :confounded: .
Left Carclo 10507 (S2+) with XP-G3 4000K 90 CRI, right Carclo 10621 (D4) with XP-L2 4000K 90 CRI.
D4 with XP-L2 compared to D4 with Nichia 219C:
Looks like this flashlight: https://www.banggood.com/de/Warsun-X50-XM-L2-3Modes-1200LM-Zoomable-LED-Flashlight-p-1020998.html
Thanks for the link. The description says Boruit. Is the lens glass?