TK's Emisar D4 review

Surely someone here aspires to a career in editing documentation?

(P.S. — is there a way to download an entire thread without pagination, as a long text file? Then deleting everything not part of the desired end product becomes fairly easy to do)

It seems to me most everything is in the D4 UI V2 diagram. The only trick i heard of is to unscrew the tail cap to reset the memory to 100% 7135 level. How to properly set the step down temperature could use some additional explanations too. Is there much else?

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-4xp-mcpcb-nichia-nvsw219ct-r8000-d260-p-915.html
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-4xp-mcpcb-cree-xpl-hi-v2-3a-p-917.html

It’s only $ 7 different.

Not hating, just stating

$7@

> unscrew the tailcap to reset the memory

Ah, that was a gotcha! I’ve been unscrewing the tailcap to lock out the button, and suddenly was surprised to find the light won’t get more than slightly brighter, ramping went away.
Must be I’m falling into that memory setting.

Thanks for the reminder where to find the printed GUI chart.

Another please-remind-me — this driver has discharge protection so I can use unprotected cells, right?

someone not named hank?

I agree…

Here is a start… who is going next?:slight_smile:

Feature index:

Basic operation

Regulated mode
100% 7135 mode (also double blink indicator)

Setting and reading out Thermal Config

Future Features not yet in the official UI version
ability to set high and low endpoints for ramping

Nominations for Most underused feature
Thermal Configuration :slight_smile:

yes

We need a love child from the D4 and

aka the Lux-RC

Products page

Maybe then we can hold on to this hot rod?

Active cooling, now we’re talking!

Where can I find pricing info?

Something tells me it’s out of my league though…

Can we hope Hank will pick up some ideas? (the active cooling part)

If it makes you unhappy then vote with your wallet and don’t buy it. Pretty simple solution. Or take it up with Hank. By posting that here you’re discussing it with people not in the production loop. Don’t want to pay the extra $18? Then don’t.

It’s worth the extra $18 for 15 seconds more Turbo time!

Thermal Stepping Down question and separate ramping question.

Just got my Gray XP-G2 D4. Long story short, steps down and continues to step down from pretty low levels, even from cold, rested start. Ramped up to what I think to be about 600 lumens or so (comparing it to what’s supposed to be about 600 on my ZL SC62w), a very usable level IMHO. Light doesn’t get hot to the touch at all….but starts stepping down pretty quickly…and keeps stepping down about every 5-7 seconds until it gets in the 150 lumen range….NEVER even warm to the touch IMHO. I think I read that the regulation is of course basing it’s feedback on internal temps and so my “feel” on the outside isn’t directly proportional to the “need for stepping down”….but this seems a bit aggressive. Basically only giving about 1 minute or so of 600-800 lumen light.
The questions: Does this sound normal? Is there a way to adjust this to give longer mid lumen level or is that not safe?

Separate ramping question:

When I’m ramping up from off, there are 2 “flickers” in the process….like a quick blink…one at about 1/3 the way up and then one right before the brightest setting. When ramping down, only one “flicker” nearer the bottom end.
Is this normal?

Couldn’t find anything in the thread referencing it….so with these 2 behaviors I’m wondering if I may have a gimpy light.

These behaviors are with a freshly charged and rested Sanyo 18650 GA at 4.1V and then a Samsung 30Q at about 3.9V.

Thanks for any help!

I haven’t yet tried Lego-ing all my other tailcaps onto this tube.
But I’m hoping one of them will fit the threads/depth/connection and be suitable to attach a split ring to connect a GITD keyfob and “lobster clip”

Those things are both answered on the first page of this thread, in posts #1 and #2. Both were also answered a few comments ago, in jon_slider’s comment #1790.

From off, click 10+ times and hold until hot.

The flickers are there because people requested it. It can’t be turned off in this version, but the code is available if you want to change it.

I pushed an update of RampingIOS.c to trunk. It adds support for higher-voltage battery configurations, like 2S/3S/4S. That part of the code wasn’t really functional before.

In Thermal reg mode, when holding in the button to increase its set point, is all thermal regulation bypassed while holding in button…? Are any other protection circuits bypassed while in this mode…?

In thermal calibration mode, no thermal regulation is attempted.

LVP only happens when the button isn’t being held.

So, while calibrating, the “safeties” are off. However, it will generally get too hot to hold, and if you let go it shuts off.

I know some people love to be clever and contrary, but if you wear heat insulation gloves in calibration mode, to hold the button down longer than normal pain tolerances would allow, any resulting problems are your own fault. :stuck_out_tongue:

(same story if you wrap the thing in a blanket and activate turbo mode… that’s just asking for trouble)

Any blip, blink, flash,? to denote the max setting of 70°c has been reached so no further ’holding in button is needed in a no protection mode. Or do you mean one cant even hold the light to even get to the 70°c max set point…?

Not trying to be contrary, just trying to give feedback on your excellent D4 UI, Let me know if its not what you want and I’ll stop.

There is no blip or anything to indicate that it is at or above 70 C in calibration mode.

On a newer firmware, I used a totally different way to set the temperature limit — go to calibration mode, then click N times to set a limit of 30 C + N. I’m not sure which method is better, really — hold until hot, or click a bunch of times. Clicking is more precise, holding is probably more intuitive.

Looks like D1 is on the market now in China, international purchase should come soon.
Someone posted their newly arrived D1 【图片】d1到了【手电吧】_百度贴吧

Hm, everything is posted before.

  • You can set the the brightness of strobe: Ramp to a desired level and than use strobe.
    But I can be wrong, I have at the time to many UIs in my head: NarsilM, D4, Skilhunt H03, Spaghetti Monster and shitty S42.
    I definitely read to much about UIs.

- TK lists a few changes which are not in the diagram here: FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #1205 by ToyKeeper