Review: KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA with mode configuration

I find the low to be on the bright side!!!!!!!!! lol? Its still significantly brighter than the low on a D10/EX10 ramping, and about the same as the low on a D10/EX10 SP.

I have mine in a skyray G6. removed 5 of the 7135's to leave 3 behind to provide something I'm guessing to be around the 1.2A mark for an XP-G.

Mode spacing for low/med/high is not bad at all IMO, a low that is *FINALLY* low enough to call a low (IMO), a medium that is not too close to being a high, could be a tad lower, but not bad at all, and plenty of power on high. Im currently running mine without memory, and on grouping number 1, so I can get 2 sets of l-m-h, followed by the disco. Because of the lack of mode memory, this works great because I rarely have to see the disco unless I actually want to.

Pretty happy with everything except the fact that it is still "on-time" memory. Off-time memory would have made this perfect. This means that if i don't turn it on for more than a second, it will go to the next mode next time I turn it on. In other words, if I were to pick up the torch one day, I cannot always guarantee that it will start on low. This does annoy me, and is why I prefer the off-time memory, in addition to the fact that mode switching requires double tapping initially.

I bought the 3A version because I get a good supply of 7135 chips for practically 10c extra over the lower current models. I find them easy to remove too!, just use 2 soldering irons that are well tinned and a "helping hands" alligator clip on a metal base to hold the board. Heat up the heatsink tab with one iron, and the 3 pins on the other iron, and when its all heated up enough, it simply slides off, usually done with a couple seconds with no collateral damage at all.

So would I buy more? likely, but I only have 2 torches that actually need replacement, the rest already have UIs that I'm happy with.

For anybody that wants a brighter low, simply break the trace to the Vdd pin on one of the 7135s and solder a jumper from the Vdd pin to B+. This will put that 7135 on full all the time so low becomes roughly 380ma. A word of caution: Only do this if you're using protected cells as this will defeat the driver's low voltage protection.

Any change of a picture of that Tony?

Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.

I've already got that driver installed in a light but here's a link to the data sheet so you can see the VDD pin I'm talking about. It just needs to be isolated from the mcu either by breaking the trace or unsoldering/lifting the pin and then jumpered to B+.

http://www.soiseek.com/ADDTEK/AMC7135/datasheet.htm

I'm gonna guess that explaining what B+ is too might be good.

Battery positive. If you use one of the 7135s that's on the battery side of the board, the jumper wire can be run from the VDD pin to the pad that the spring is soldered to.

Just be sure that the VDD pin for the 7135 you're using is disconnected from the trace on the board or it will backfeed the others and you'll lose all modes except high.

What are the modes settings with the reflash you did?

.002, .085, .650, 1.5, 3.15

Soon I will sandwich a triple with these:) hopefully it will be a beast ,lol

Piggyback works fine, i soldered 2 extra 7135 (350mA) on it, and driver delivers 3,74A.

Hi

I need your help

I bought this driver from kaidomain and i can't get even close to 3040ma. The maximum ma i measured(from the battery to the driver) in high mode is 1450ma. What i have done until now

and

I have connected this driver to:

2 ultrafire 501b, (1 ebay and 1 manasoft.com)

1 ultrafire c8, (ebay)

1 citipower x5(ultrafire 502b clone)

All of them have the xm-l t6 leds

my batteries are

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-18650-3-7v-true-2400mah-rechargeable-lithium-batteries-2-pack-20392

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-2000mah-3-7v-tr-18650-battery-2-pack-12396

and

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-protected-18650-3-7v-2400mah-lithium-batteries-2-pack-grey-19624

I fully charge them to 4,2v with 1A charge rate with a turnigy accucel 6 charger

I even tried to connect 2 18650 batteries(same brand) in parallel just in case my batteries have high internal resistant.

I replaced the thin cable from the driver to the led with a thicker cable 2mm diameter

Note: I didn't soldered any bridge

I had no luck whatever I tried until now

Do you have any idea what is wrong or what i sould try next?

I am not a hero in english language so please try to post in simple english

Thanks

Try a different DMM or different leads on your DMM some have a hard time reading above 1 amp.

I think the same, everything indicates thin wires or a bad DMM; You can try with thick wires directly to the DMM (Digital Multi Meter). I used to have this problem, I and solved it that way with 5mm² (AWG10) wires.

Perhaps the batteries are not up to the job. Did you get any higher reading in a DD light?

I don’t think so, he used TrustFire “Flames” and connected them in parallel.

Thank you all for your post.

I have to admit i didn't thing to change my multimeter.

I have 2 multimeter

1X25usd from dx and 1X5usd?!?!? from ebay. The results i have with the first dmm is 1250ma, with the second 1100ma but with both of them(in paraller) about 2000ma (first dmm 1100ma, second dmm 900ma).

First i connected the 25usd dmm and then I connected the second.... wow the output was awesome. Since i don't own a third dmm i left the 2 dmms connected in pareller and i added a 1mm 20mm long cable in parallel too.... and wow! even more output than the 2 dmms in paraller so the mystery solved. The strange thing is that the 2 dmms was still had indications when i connected the extra cable(800ma the first and 350ma the second)

So now i need a recommendation for a multimeter(not very expensive) and thick leads for my future explorations

If DD stands for direct drive the answer is yes but as you see the problem was the dmm.

Do you solder a connection between the driver (battery negative ring) and the pill?

I am not sure what is the pill but i didn't solder anything. I used crocodile clips(extra cable and the cheap dmm have them installed)

The pill is the brass part of the flashlight, where the LED is glued on.

For example this part, if it is a drop-in:

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S010133

To get a good result you have to solder a battery negative ring to the brass part.