The sought after AMC 7135 board master/slave sandwich mod - an explanation

Thanks, Dan. I see, so it means that Shiningbeam may have ordered them to start with Low, since theirs star with Low.

Or....

Do you have the 105C, right? Because they also sell the 106 star-less model (still 8x7135), which is L-M-H.

Yup, it's a 105C, it has the stars and the text "105C" on it....

I would like to say a BIG thank you to both Old Lumens and techjunkie for this very informative discussion regarding paralleling boards for multi-XML mod. There are very few boards around that are both capable and reliable to drive a circuit described above. Until such time, this is a nice alternate for those of us who crave "big power".

It reminds me of the days when P7's were the "big boys" in town and 2.8A drivers were not quite mainstream.

Great info. Thanks.

Its great to see this info consolidated and explained well.

I'd never seen that last pic. And thank you for the red and black "wires". My mind works in red and black when thinking about electricity (which is why I avoid household electrical work :))

Ok, there are several versions of this board. I have seen at least five versions of the same basic 2.8A board. All of them appear to be different. It seems like each run has modifications on it. You will have to contact the supplier or vendor of your particular board to determine which star needs to be bridged and each version may be different as to high, med. low, strobe, etc. I do not have the information for each run of boards. If someone does, then please enlighten us with a list of each rev.

Also, I did not do a step by step, solder this to that, because I have not done this mod myself. As far a wire goes, I use the us awg standard for wire diameter, even though it is a very conservative chart. I use the column headed "Maximum amps for power transmission" column. I have never found a chart for LED emitters. There is also this chart for 12vdc automotive wiring and it might be closer to what we use.

In the pic below, the component highlighted isn't necessary, correct? Not the clearest explanation by techjunkie but I believe he said it wasn't important when you asked him why the other resistors were removed but this one in the center remained. Am I correct in my interpretation?

Madi05 - techjunkie states you use the number of boards you need like this, 1 board = 1 emitter. If you have one emitter, use one board and add a board for each emitter added. Remember these are linear boards and they control Amperage. Voltage is controlled by the Vf of the emitters, suffice to say that you only need One Li-ion or three NiMH batteries to supply this parallel setup. One Li-ion + 3.7vdc or 3 NiMH (in sereis)= 3.6vdc.

The Amperage will be the problem here. Short run time on lower amp rated batteries. There's a give & take to all of this. This lets you run 2 or three or more emitters with one Li-ion or 3 NiMHs (in series), but the price is short run time because the amperage is high.

If you did series instead of parallel, then you would need more batteries because the Voltage will be higher, but the Amperage stays the same.

Parallel - Amperage increases for each emitter in parallel.

Sreies - Voltage increases for each emitter in series.

Hope this helps, if not PM me and we can work it out.

Those boards are One mode boards from Kaidomain. The "resistor" shown is the sense resistor. It is stock on those boards and it is ok to leave them, or it can be removed. For the boards that already have the controller on them (multi mode boards), if you use them as slaves, then strip off the controller and all the resistors, so that only the AMC7135 chips are left on that side of the board.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for this! I'll be trying a 3 board sandwich for a Beamtech bt4000 once the boards come in. I'm sure the pictures will be a handy reference when it's time to wire them up.

You only use 1 Li-ion cell. You could use 2, but it will increase the voltage, not the amperage, so it does not help (unless you were to wire up 2 cells in parallel).

Parallel - more amps

Series - more voltage.

As far as how many amps? How many boards are you going to use? If you are using this board, then 2.8 Amps per each board. 1 board - 2.8 amps, 2 boards - 5.6 amps, 3 boards 8.4 amps.

In one of techjunkie's mods, he was using 3 AA NiMH cells and was getting 8.4 amps (i believe), I wouldn't want to do to that to poor old AA NiMHs. Very short run times and a lot of stress on the cells.

Li-ion? I do not know the limits of Li-ion, you have to ask for others to help with that. I do not think one 18650 would take 8.4 amps. That's why a lot of mods are done with NiMH, since they can take more abuse without going bad. I think a 26650 or 32650 would do well with this type of mod, but I'm not a Li-ion guy. I'm sure others will chime in with better answers.

Disclaimer - I am an amature modder. I am not an electronics guy, so take my answers with a grain of salt and if you have doubts, ask other menbers for confirmation. This board setup is new to me also, but I see how it works and I will be doing mods this way. For me, this is a way to do 3 XM-L U2 with 3 NimMH batteries. I can see doing one with 3 "C" or 3 "D" and with "D" LSD NiMH cells, I would have 10,000mah, so the amperage problem is solved.

Li-ion is like the White Buffalo to me. Something you hear about, but don't necessarily believe, so Li-ion questions should also be asked, to some of the wiser Li-ion using members here.

An IMR 18650 would handle 8.4A easily but for normal li-ion it's best not to exceed 2C. That's 2 times the rated capacity of the cell. For example 4.8A from a 2400mAh cell or 6.2A from a 3100mAh. If you use 2 cells in parallel you can double that. For example 12.4A from two 3100mAh cells.

HTH,

Tony

So u r saying I have to do 3 drivers to run 3 LEDs which will be 8.4 amps ,I’m only running one 26650 will that 8.4amps hurt my battery?
Also 14 wag wire is ok?
And I only ordered 2 3040ma because this all I thought I needed but I have 1 2280 the same driver jus the step below can I use it for my third with same effect or will it mess things up, I sure would hate to have to wait for another one :frowning:
Thanks so much u have helped me a whole lot understanding :slight_smile: I will pm u soon asu mentioned :wink:

Hey Tony check your pm I sent u a message a few days ago ,thanks

Yes, 3 LEDs = 3 driver boards.

Hopefully others will tell you about the 26650.

Each emitter uses approx 3amps. I would think the 14awg is plenty and then some.

Always order a couple spare, what if you mess one up? The boards are fairly cheap and having exrta won't hurt. I would think all the boards should be the same output, but different ones could be used. I don't know if the difference in brightness would be visible or not.

I will wire the 2280 last so if there is a difference I can replace easily and back before I got sick a couple years I ordered some dig stuff but can’t find it at the moment strength thanks a lot ,will let u know and do pics of my ugly soldering lol

Thanks for taking the time to put this us Old-Lumens

This setup is how I wire all of my Mag mods like the Neutralizer.

I use all 2.8A boards and remove every component on the slaves except the 7135's. Everything works great, but on a single IMR a triple will only do ~5A. The voltage just isn't quite high enough. If I use four NIMH's in a 4C body, it all comes alive and I'll get a full ~10A. (I add two 7135's to each board to get 3.5A to each LED.)

Pay attention to Techjunkie's advice on treating all contact points with Deoxit. I use a Q-tip to dab it on contact points, and the amperage jumped up.

To be honest, the difference between 5 and 10A isn't that much. The 1C lights I've done, using a single 26650, are still bloody bright and light up the world around here.

If you're gonna do a neutral configuration, use the 4500K neutral XML's from LED Supply. They have the best tint of any I got from a U.S. supplier.

Rich

Ok here is what Old Lumens and i have come up with for using the kd drivers for the triple xml upgrade , u have to remove the following 3 pieces on two of the 3 boards ,, as to the older one techno shows they are very similar but on different sides and there is a 3rd bigger one marked s8 not needed as well , so here is what i did and if u have any questions please ask, im not sure yet it works so u may want to wait till i get it all together and see what happens i just got one done and also wanted to post it up so Old Lumen can critique as well :)

here is where i used the needle noses to apply light pressure on one side while desoldering quickly the legs and pulling gently at same time till it popped up like u see, and then did the other side the same way

removed with a small needle nose plier

this is all 4 removed, i got a little burnt edge on the bigger on on the outer edge of the driver, hope it will not effect anything , what do u think Old Lumens?

these are 3 of the 4 pieces removed , i dropped one of the tiny guys on the floor and lost it, lol

thats all i got so far ;)