The H1-A isn’t for 6V emitters? 3pieces of 3V leds in series need 9V or not? Or you mod something on driver too?
@Jensen567
Very nice! I would like to try something like this. I only WISH the H1-A had an eswitch version!
ZozzV6:
You are correct. Stock the H1-A is suited for 6V emitters (like the 2S2P), but by changing one of the 47k feedback resistors to a 75k it can be setup for 9V operation no problem. I have several setup that way now, some have been running for a couple of months without issue.
LightRider:
I agree that they should make an e-switch version available, the MCU has a free pin which could be used for it. In the meantime, BLF user Cousin Elmer has written some basic custom firmware for the PIC on H1-A, so e-switch could likely be added if you’re willing to flash it yourself.
Jensen567 That is awsome. I think I will buy some. How much current it can put on the leds?
You are limited by the 10A input ceiling on the TPS61088 chip, so you can get about 24W fully regulated. Can do less too, tune the sense resistor to get the desired output. In my triples I usually use an R030 which is about 2.4A, for the 6V stuff I usually go with R020 which is good for about 3.5A. Stock is R025 which is a bit over 2.8A.
Really! What do I need to be able to flash? I suppose not usbasp, atmel studio, and avrdud and such?
Either the microchip ICD3 programmer, a PICKit, or Cousin Elmer built something out of a raspberry pi that he is using. There is some minor PCB modification to be done as well so you can pull the MCLR pin to programming voltage. Or you can just pull the IC off, program it, then stick it back on if you don’t change it often.
Kaidomain triple? Nice emitters! I like the KD optics too.
Just wondering if it’s a possibility, but couldn’t you just air wire a 13a MCU instead?
You could if you have the space in the host for it.
Cool, I just might attempt it, if I new how? 
Now if the driver originally was push button driver, and I wire up a 13a e-switch MCU it should work, since I’m going thru this MCU, or would I need something else?
Q8 modded
- cleaned the brass ring
- 3.2mm holes and countersunk 120° on the driver
- spring bypass
- Reflector screw replaced and LEDs centered
- original lubricant with a lot eloxal removed and replaced
- glue from all holes removed cutting the threads again
- some glue from the tubes tail blank surfaces removed
Unsoldered LEDs and switch just holding my temp stabilized iron at 300°C at the other side
also skillet might work well
then cut the trace to one LED and add a resistor
add solder paste
add resistor and wire
2 white LEDs with 19.1kOhms each
the camera might be false because of the button here, both are excactly the same brightness
Cool stuff Lexel.
basically same to mine with only one 0805 size 22K resistor in original placement, it barely fit, but works. My white LEDs are also blue under the cap, not that blue to the eye but camera looks more blue.
Lexel, I find you work to be remarkable. Always enjoy seeing your creativity.
I swapped the emitter in my D4 few weeks ago for the KD 4000K ones, and today I decided to slice the domes for a little more throw :
Before and after :
As expected, the throw is improved and the tint has changed for a more rosy beam, nothing bad at all 
Unfortunately, the beam is now more square-ish, as in the XP-L HI version I would guess.
Made a metal switch for the Noctigon M43
And did the D4 too
With 2 LEDs in diagonale, when seing this some people with OCD are going to be pissed. 
That is the way they are set out with the three different colours, just more noticeable now, but you’re right, I prefer it when the green ones are lit
This is the third iteration of this mod
I’d wish i had your skills and creativity.