I lolād too
@ srs2000
Well done sir :laughing:
Got mine today, too. Shipped via free air express to California. Using 30Qs from mtnelectronics. Both green LEDs appear to have similar brightnesses, and have been working thus far (7+ hours). Fingers crossed.
As for the always-on beacon, is the Q8 really consuming only 135uA with the LEDs on? That's pretty good considering how bright they are.
I still have another coupon, and so I guess I'll order another one. Maybe I'll get it by the holidays. :-)
On these lights, there is a spring pcb screwed down in the tail, removing the tail cap only shows you thatā¦. right? So why the worry over rough threads on the tail capā¦ the one that isnāt removed in daily usage? Puzzles me, is allā¦
/\
Maybe to be able to āsmoothlyā access the secret mini instructions some will stash in there. 
Fixed that for you 
Cheers David
ā¦. Nooooooooooo not me. Some might, but I will not be one of them. 
just got the light today with standard shipping
the ramping mode works great but the blinkies not i double click from off to turbo then double click to strobe and if i click once again its off iff i make a fast double click i get to bike strobe but from there i cant get any further blinkies single click turns the light off and double click also off ā¦. and the double click has to be very fast
Great seeing a lot of new arrivals that bring a lot of ābong for the buckā
Li ion and bang are a poor combination
After the one yesterday that was a setting thing we now see the 4th issue 
Can you make a video while it still is in flicker mode and has not stopped completely (yet)?
And pitches help of course.
Maybe some testing with a DMM?
Thanks for letting know and still be able to enjoy the rest of the Q8!
Title changed and OP updated with an announcement;
Dear all,
It is clear there is an issue with some lighted switches.
I have a little sad announcement to make, production of new Q8 lights is halted while the problem is solved.
There are 2000 hosts ready for assembly and all the parts needed are there.
Thorfire is contacting the supplier of the SMD LEDs and all pictures and tests people do with a non working lighted switch assembly help to further pinpoint the reason of failure.
So I am very sorry to say we are back at āit is done when it is doneā but with a big difference, before we did not have a problem if answers took days or even weeks, now that everybody has literally invested at least $40,- we want things to go fast and Thorfire is very responsive so there is good cooperation to get it done ASAP.
This also means that if you have not received a shipping notice, it will not come before it has been made clear the problems are solved.
I have confidence in Thorfire, the issues (now 4) came after some use, all Q8 lights work out of the box so that is great.
With 4 problems more are expected so this is the best way to proceed IMHO.
I am really sorry that the wait continues and hope you can accept it.
Also keep problem reports coming, we will find a good solution while aiming at having the rest free of the issue.
Cheers David
FIXED SWITCH LED!
Turns out it is the resistor. After swapping to another smd led i had from a battery back circuit board (getting polarity right on those things is a pain in the arse), it was still flickering. I re-applied heat to the resistor and noticed that when the iron jumped the resistor (touched both sides) both switch leds came on really bright. So i stacked another smd resistor on top of the original and BAM! Solid light. Measured current draw 6.6mA so you do the math on what the equivalent resistance is, Iām too tired and can go to sleep happy that we found a fix.
Your welcome
How do you disassemble the switch? I got the 2 screws out from the driver board but then the wires are fairly short to really see anything else. Iām hoping someone can do a detailed breakdown of the flashlight for modding. Iād like to swap out the green LEDs for something different. Perhaps pink and blue?
THANKS
Thanks for the update amplificus. Nice detective work.
Once you can get past that first blinky, into the 2ND or higher, you press and hold to go back a level and can then click to go forward again if you wish. See my video. I think itās Narsil Part 2.
So it wasnāt a bad solder of the resistor, it was the resistor itself? Maybe 15k is too high a resistance?
6.6mA is a big drain. I get 0.40 mA at 8 volts for my lights.
The Q8 runs at half that voltage and draws 0.14mA.
So if the Q8 resistor is 15k, then maybe reduce it to 12k or 8k might be enough to keep it working and still keep the drain low.
Itās quite possible the 15k resistor is dropping the voltage too low for the smd leds to light up.
Or Thorfire might be able to switch to LEDs that run at a lower voltage and keep the 15k resistor. This should reduce brightness as well.
I got a small assortment of leds from DBCustom. Iāve got a bright green and a weak green. TF are definitely using a bright green. Maybe a switch to a weak green would work better?
We donāt need a switch light that is so bright. Do we?
You donāt need to do anything with the driver. You undo the ring holding the switch and can access it all from the outside.
When you undo the ring and take the rubber cover off you see this.
You can use tweezers or a hook tool to pull it further out if you need to.
Iām thinking that the tolerance of the resistor might be too large, and the LEDās are not reaching the Vf needed to function reliably. I made sure to melt the solder on the resistor before, and it didnāt fix it. I will try and find a better solution in the spare parts i have.
Thanks for the confirmation. Those do seem like Hulk style leds. So tiny, yet so bright!