Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

Try with E404

No in the mean time Thorfire received 1600*$40 while making 2500 Q8 flashlights.
Believe me all want it resolved and fast :wink:

i have not had any issues with mine but i just got it yesterday

I wanted to know if anyone can tell me how to lower the moon light mode.

Please

Yes I know, and it’s at least a relief that this lousy construction is no imminent showstopper for the use with our C8, but Banggood sells these batteries with the declaration “Max. continuous discharge: 20A”, so I thought it’s a more substantial electrical connection. For Example (a pair of Sanyo 2600 mAh BT-cells I own):

Remember that the button tops are ‘modded’ batteries. They don’t ‘have to’ work just like stock. As the various tests that have been posted here show, different button top like mods produce different results. Solder boobs seem to add the least resistance. I would guess that spot welding the button top directly to the top of the cell would be next best, and this jacked up ‘weld a strap to the battery and a button top to the strap’ would be further down the performance spectrum.

The addition of the button top adds something to the resistance of the cell. So it WILL NOT perform as well as one without.

So it seems to me that most of the reports of faulty switch LEDs goes like this:

1. Load new cells, everything works fine.
2. Play with Q8. Be amazed.
3. Turn of Q8, switch LED is now wonky.

If that’s what’s going on, has anybody tried recharging their cells to full to see if that “fixes” the switch LEDs? Seems to me that if the switch LEDs are operating right on the edge of their Vf due to too much resistance or too weak LEDs or whatever, then using the light, and thereby dropping the voltage some, could be what’s triggering the “issues”. I mean at some low voltage level all of our e-switch LEDs would go out, but due to parts tolerances maybe some are doing it much at higher voltage than expected or desired. Or maybe I’m missing something…

Yes emarkd testing such things can be a great help

marsalla, see post 2 and/or the included manual :wink:

Ahhh, thanks! That was easy. Now looking at the leds and I don’t want to do it anymore… ha! Plus I was hoping my brand new retaining ring pliers would help but alas, a scratch was inevitable. Nothing a Sharpie can’t fix :slight_smile:

I've used needlenose with rounded edges on the backside, and was able to loosen the switch retaining ring without scratches, but being careful in doing so.

I would suggest button top Sony VTC6 batteries or Samsung 30Q batteries…I’m partial to the VTC6s myself.

Just get all the black of it, looks good with the bezel :wink:

So both of mine have the switch LED asymmetry — one green LED quite bright (on the same side as the “BLF”), the other (on the “Q8” side) quite dim.

Just reporting for statistical purpuses, the appearance doesn’t bother me.
I’m puzzled and wonder if it’s related to the flickering others have experienced.
I’m leaving mine lit up in case the flicker takes a while to emerge.

All respect to ThorFire for doing the QC. If the problem began with a beancounter buying cheap parts, I hope that gets identified as the actual problem.
It so often is not caused by the guys on the production line putting things together. As with aviation, problems often are initiated days before and far from where they appear.

“There’s three kinds of testers: alpha, beta, and ‘sorry Charlie’” — a programmer.

I rotated the switch assembly on my proto, in case of uneven brightness I would do the same and have the brightest one at the highest point , brings back symmetry :wink:

I'm finding good results with Samsung 35E's, but with DIY solder tops added.

One eBay source sold out of them already - I bought a set of 8 for $40.49 from this eBay store, all seemed good, but he's all sold out now. Just order another set of 8 from eBay here for the same price, just shipped, not received yet, so can't vouch for this source yet.

Again, important to understand they need soldered or added tops of some sort, but still $40 shipped for 8 of these cells is a pretty good deal.

I use snap ring pliers to loosen bezel, then a toothpick to unthread. Some of these type of pliers have interchangable tips of different sizes.

Are those pictures showing how to rotate the switch LED position?

Or — I’d assume — you need to get at the circuit board underneath the plastic cover to rotate the LEDs?

For me the brightness asymmetry is in the “if you fiddle with it long enough you’re going to break it” category
(thanks, Mom, for that good lifetime advice)

The pics I posted was removing bezel & button cover for our friend from Spain.

Here is hypothetical question. For the 4 or 5 out of 500 with indicator issues: would you be interested in returning your q8 to thorfire if return shipping was 100 percent free? Just curious to see what the actual impact of this issue

More better now… :smiley:
Link to what I used.

Very kool.