Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

Under normal conditions I thought my switch leds looked fairly balanced, with button cover.

Removed button…various zooms with faster shutter speeds.

I understand exactly what you are referring to now. :+1:
And while I really do not expect them to line up… I do find it refreshingly nice when the battery tube and head do line up in some discernible pattern. :slight_smile:

  • Some people don’t have a preference, no problem there.
  • Some of us do have a preference, no problem there either.

There is no right or wrong to be understood. It simply boils down to personal preference.

In fact… the majority of the lights I own have a discernible pattern of symmetry between battery tube & head.

In fact… Nitecore either indexes them during manfacturing OR I have been extremely lucky. I cannot think right now of one Nitecore light I own that does not have the symmetry we are speaking of. I own a bunch of them too.

But back to the Q8…. just the luck of the draw on this one. You’ll either have to try one of the fixes mentioned or live with it I guess. :frowning:

I got lucky… 2 of 3 so far have had the symmetry I like.

The third not at all…. But, it just also happens to be one that arrived DOA today.
If I had been looking for an omen I would have known it as soon as I opened the box & unwrapped it. :smiley:

Mine arrived yesterday. Very satisfied!! Smoothest ramping ever. I wouldn’t use the Police strobe inside. Your eyeballs will let you know after. I have been carrying it for a day now. The comments from people I showed it to are all good. Switch LED’s are good but also bright. It does take getting used to the click timing. Everything works as supposed to. A couple sharp edges which I shaved down and “sharpied.” (Edge burrs fourth fin from bezel above 1/4” thread and same above switch) E lockout nice or slight turn for mechanical. I leave it powered on with switch glowing. Easy to find at night and no problems. I believe you will be VERY SATISFIED when yours arrives. I look forward to my next arrival. Throw is good as is tint. Great job on the printed cheat sheet! Best to all.

Once you get to the police strobe, you can easily cycle up and down the 5 blinky modes. Press and hold and the lights cycles backwards to regular strobe and you can then click normally to go back up to the bike strobe or beacon, etc…

Honestly, all I use is the ramping, double click to turbo and triple click for batt check. That’s all. No need to memorize anything else. Save the other stuff for reading in the manual.

I know y’all have it covered Tom. :+1: … I was just telling him the way he worded it painted a perfect picture with the switch cover on.
He nailed it creating a verbal image. :wink:

Do you mean the flashlight is doa or the switch lights are not working?

If the flashlight is doa, then that is the first reported one. They are supposed to check all flashlights at thorfire to be working or not.

Please clarify.

Thanks

Did everybody’s questions get answered?

He asked while diving into a nearby ditch as he knows he may be bombarded with unanswered questions from weeks ago. Lol

Are we having fun yet? :wink:

Mine arrived today. Switch lights appear to be working fine after a few hours. I do notice that one is slightly less bright than other, but only when looking up close.

The flats on the battery tube don’t exactly line up with the flats on the head, but that’s not a big deal to me.

Otherwise my only issue is my thumb not being used to the switch - I end up doing click-holds instead of double-clicks more often than not. At least I don’t need any of the double-click modes very often.

Hey, at least no one has mentioned the springs. Lol

Oh yeah, Banggood is sending me one new battery to replace the one that had the bad wrapper on it. Cool.

Hearing that your 3rd one is DOA is real comforting, considering some of us would settle for a single unit that maybe had a off bright switch led.
Waited a year + for squat. On a list that means squat.
And What happened to the order list near the top of the OP??
Pffffffff, vanished. Funny how that happens.
Disgusted.

My thought was two workers were tasked with placing the emitters and working from two different spools. It seems possible to me but I could be wrong but the best possibility of balanced output is sequential emitters from the spool followed by testing with a calibrated voltage/current source. In a mass test groups could be wired to power in a manner that split voltage and current and uses photos to isolate extreme variation between emitter pairs. When doing calibrations I sometimes did ‘gang’ cal of groups of low accuracy (±3% or +) voltmeters where the combined uncertainty was less than the certified accuracy of the standard. Not endorced procedure but after testing groups of meters and following up with individual tests not one failed. A superior kind of freaked out seeing me do it but every meter I passed was within tolerance when re-checked.

Thanks tekwyzrd.
Hurray for BOINC, by the way.

So with 2 LEDs in parallel, the risk over time down the line would be if one of them dies or its connection
fails, all the current goes through the other one and fries that one? That would explain a cautious approach.

Who are you referring to?
What do you mean by doa? The switch led or the flashlight?

Nah, if one burned out it would be like a 7.5k resistor on the other led. It would be a bit brighter, but not burn out. I think Amplificus shorted the resistor and the leds did not blow. They just drew way too much power so the battery drain is much higher.

Don’t be this guy/gal

Be these guys/gals

Or you could just be me

who says lighten up people.

Cheers David

Switch leds measure 2.246v each with batteries at 4.008v. In case it matters.

It’s been many years since I did this, but I have had luck in the past using two irons - one in each hand, with the tips on each pad. Use the tips of the irons like tweezers or pliers by pushing them each towards the other and lift the part off the board.

I’ve been playing with the UI and have a question since you asked JasonWW.

I am back in ramping mode, and have configured Moon mode for the lowest level.
Click and hold starts the light from a low and ramps up - as expected.
Ramping it back down, I get a switch blink at a fairly low level. - as expected.
I can select a level, turn the light off and with a single click I get the remembered mode. - as expected.
However - from off, with a medium click - I get this crazy dim moonlight level (I like it - it just does not seem to be in the cheat sheet or the doc on post 2.) This seems to be the only way to get into this level. I can’t ramp to it at all.
My eyes are a little whacked right now - mostly from the Q8, but also staring at a monitor. So I’m going to go sit in a very dark room for a while and see what this level looks like.
I’m just wondering if this is a know feature or an easter egg?

Just want to pass it along that ThorFire is sorry for the delay, and they think they can work out the SW LED issue quickly. Don't know, or am sure, of all the details, but sounds like they will go with a 2 resistor design, and go back to the LED's they used on the prototypes. They are also looking at some of the screw issues - no promises there though.

I was actually about to comment on that Lazy-R-us. So what is happening is that via ramping down the lowest level is ALWAYS the “default” level. The only way to get to the user specified level 1-7 is to hold from off and it turns on in that mode, then you let go immediately. Also something that bugged me… I set the moonlight level to 7 because I dislike moonlight and always ramp up for a moment before using my lights, but if you long press to get my default value of 7, then keep holding in, the ramping dips back down to the default of 3 before ramping up. Essentially ramping doesn’t reference the user specified moonlight level as where to start ramping and always starts at 3.

The screw issues barely bother me, but I’m glad Thorfire is working expediently to get things shipping out again. There is light glue on the tail cap spring board but it wasn’t like a loctite, just kind of sticky. It was also between the board and where it contacts the body tube. I cleaned it off on mine, but it wasn’t an issue, just something I noticed while being nosy. All of my screws are in good shape.

I was expecting this light to get hot, but even after 8 minutes of turbo it’s barely breaking a sweat. I really like that, turbo is a practical mode.