It can’t be easy for the poor operators, trying to get the M3 screws started in the too-tight driver PCB hole. Then trying to get them started in the metal body, after they have tapped their way through the PCB, with no hole-clearance for alignment. Add in some sandblasting grit as well …
I can imagine the muttered curses, and time-pressure to meet productivity targets.
Then it seems some torches are having glue added (maybe old habits die hard, some are just doing what they were trained to do on standard mass-produced torches). Did we ask for them not to be glued ?
Perhaps the screws are laptop type with JIS heads but the screwdrivers are not, perhaps some screwdrivers are just worn out (should be regularly inspected and replaced as necessary, not just wait for an operator to ask for a new one) etc. etc.
Maybe final assembly is even sent out to a number of “piecework” operators (used to be common practice in China).
Result: chewed heads.
None of this matters much to me, as long as the threads in the metalwork are good, and I can get the original screws out, without too much bother. Heating screw head with a soldering iron first if glue is suspected is a good tip, particularly if you want to re-use them, and don’t want to risk chewing up a good head yourself. If a screw seems unduly tight I also give the screwdriver a good rap on the handle with a soft hammer first to try to break it free before bearing down and going for it.
Interested in parts for q8,driver and switch… And different bezels? :sunglasses:
I want to show some pictures, i dont understand nothing or not too much about the pcb “problems” but i can do things to fix the little things,clean, or easy tasks i want to learn.
Its a vicious circle, once you start stripping heads the screwdriver suffers as well, particularly if it is not a high quality one. Production standard tools are expensive, but worth every penny.
Then there is the job of the buyer, who may have no engineering knowledge whatsoever, or maybe is new, and given this seemingly trivial task whilst the senior buyers focus on the difficult stuff, like electronic components, switch LEDs etc.
Tasked to procure at least 18,000 screws needed for the initial run (2000 plus however many more we don’t know about). Maybe in a desperate last minute rush.
Lowest bidder wins, if e.g. material spec. not fully specified, even if made of cheese.
Ever heard of screw grab? I wish I’d learned of it 10 years earlier. It’s usually great for dealing with damaged screws. I read lapping compound works as well, though I’ve never used that myself.
I didn’t take a picture but I had glue on all 4 of my screws. I drilled the holes under the springs out and ran 20awg wire from the top of each spring to a screw hole on the board. I didn’t take any measurements before but I could tell it was brighter.
Just received mine! Everything looks fine, except the LED centering. Anyone have a tip on how to get the reflector out? It just won’t budge and I don’t want to use excessive force trying to get it out.
Did you remove the screw that holds it down? Gotta take driver out - then you'll see it - one M4 x8mm (think), centered. It's in very tight - use a really good screwdriver. After than the reflector may need a little nudging because the o-ring kind of holds it in.
I'm replacing this screw as well. Think should be a combo, some are phillips only - another inconsistent thing... :FACEPALM:
My theory: when they put the M2.5 screws on the later prototype, (earlier ones were M3), they were thinking about commonality with the tail screws, which makes perfect sense. They got the driver drilling changed to M2.5 (correct) but they forgot to tell manufacturing to update the CNC program, so ended up with battery tubes to the old design, and maybe had to source a bunch of M3 screws ASAP, and took whatever they could get. Then forced them into the M2.5 driver boards (hey, look, if you force it you can get the screws in, result, we don’t have to manually re-drill them all, phew.)
Bad enough having a mix of M2.5 and M3, but worse still if some are Phillips and others JIS. Recipe for wrong screwdriver being used (if they even have any JIS drivers).
My tail screw replacements are torx pan head, but my driver replacements are hex socket button top (lower profile), and my M4x8mm reflector replacement is phillips pan head.
Nothing like variety.... :FACEPALM:
I suppose torx button tops all around would be best? Lower profile would help. If I could get them at a reasonable cost and time...
Thanks for the info. I ordered an assortment of 0603 smd resistors just in case. Hopefully both leds will work just fine with the supplied voltage. If not, I can swap out the 1 resistor with something lower to provide 3v to power the blue and do some adhoc soldering to drop the voltage even further to 2.5v for the pink.
