Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

I think the main appeal of the L6 is that it only costs $65. It’s a lot of light and high quality for the money.

The K60 is what, $180? I’m sure it’s good, but it’s in a very different price bracket.

Good for you wolfdog. K60vn is $240. L6vn is $150… you will get the stock UI with k60vn…

Anyhow, I think l6 is a good light for what it is. Price and performance…

Just got my L6 couple weeks ago. Added R100 resistor.
Using Aspire battery, only have 2 pieces.
Want to dedome the led and put SMO reflector on it.
Already purchase that, thankfully.

L6 with TA Narsil driver is really nice, love ramping but you can set up the UI in many ways

Do you mean slicing the dome off? I’ve heard that dedoming the xhp70 is very difficult.

Also, be prepared for a noticable lumen drop. After slicing my 70 I actually went back and bought a new emitter to keep the dome.

You guys are right,for the price the L6 is a good deal.

Thanks NL. One thing you have to understand,The price Vinh has listed and what Capolini/Wolfdog pays are Two different things!!!

I always negotiate and Vinh is very fair,actually there is no negotiation! I give him an offer and he accepts it.

I threw in My Orbtronic 26650 5200mah/15A and got the K60vn for……$200. :+1:

,$60 more than I paid for the L6vn

Or what, his Corvette sleeps with the Fishes? :open_mouth:

:person_facepalming: :+1:

I do like TA driver, but the shipping almost same the price.
It’s not easy choice for me. Ordering couple isn’t worth for me.

Yes, want to perform that actually.
I’m aware the side effect after the procedure.
Still contemplating about that. Want to purchase some XHP70 and XHP70.2 for spare.
Or like you, to keep the original set.

Slicing xhp70.2 dome is a yes or no?
I thought it was a no but I have read differend things here.

From what I’ve heard, there is not a big gain in lux like with the older 70. I haven’t tried it myself.

I’d like to improve the overall output as well as the throw of my convoy l6 5000k flashlight. What’s the easiest way to do this? Swap emitters to .2 with a smooth reflector, swap the driver, or just do a resistor mod?

I’m leaning toward the driver replacement but I don’t know which driver to chose. I have a D4 and it’s my favorite UI of all my lights so something like that would be preferable…

Is it currently stock? If so then swapping to the 70.2 will give you no gain. The Smo reflector is relatively cheap and will improve the throw. A swap to a fet driver will give you the biggest gains in output. You’ll get about 11 to 12 amps with a fet driver and Good batteries. Lexel is currently making the Texas Avenger driver with narsil which is very nice. Also, Richard of mountain Electronics is offering a FET driver. He even has an option to load the D4 ramping firmware on it.

So I would do those first. Then if you still want more output you can swap to the 70.2 and get 17 to 18 amps. It also helps to get a smoother beam pattern.

It is currently stock. I will order the 30mm FET+7135 Driver from Richard and have him flash it with the D4 firmware for 35 cents extra (lol). How hard is it to replace the driver?

I assume I just remove the two screws next to the LED (are they screwed into the retaining ring or is unscrewing them unnecessary?). Then, I unscrew the retaining ring on the head by opening pliers so there’s some sort of friction on the inside of the ring that will allow me to grip it and twist? And then I can just desolder the wires from the old driver that are going to the LED and e switch and solder those onto the new driver? Is it really that simple or am I in over my head?

Is there a recommended cheap soldering iron and type of solder I should buy? My old radioshack iron got lost in my move years ago.

I have those Liitokalas and I just put a small flathead under the flat top and bent the metal upwards enough that the batteries now work in series without the nuisance of a button magnet. No soldering necessary. FYI, I’m not sure if I have genuine Liitokalas but it should work either way.

The 1 or 2 screws by the led prevent the mcpcb from rotating when you tighten the bezel.

The driver retaining ring has 2 holes in it. I use snap ring pliers to fit in and easily turn it. Or you can take needle nose pliers and grind the tips down to a smaller diameter.

The rest is all correct. 4 wires to unsolder from the old and solder to the new.

You want to use rosin core wire for electronics. Typically 60/40 tin/lead Sn/Pb, roughly 3% flux.

The cheap soldering irons are okay, but not very high quality or very powerfull usually. Before I bought my digital soldering station I used this model for many years.
http://www.frys.com/product/4825190
and still have it as a backup. Pretty cheap with adjustable heat and 50w of power. The 3 o’clock knob position is good for circuits and max is good for automotive wires. So not a lot of adjustment range, but still nice.

i am using that exact battery no problem with contact.

Jason, what digital soldering station do you currently use?

The Hakko 888 is hard to beat. I got mine when they still had analog but the digital ones now are even nicer.

Is TS100 good solder? I’m tempting to buy one of that.

Thanks, Dale. Unfortunately the Hakko is not in my budget. I’m thinking of replacing a 30+ year old Weller soldering “gun”.

I got a Yihua 995d.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RL9YWQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506773361&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=995d+soldering+station&dpPl=1&dpID=51O3jrV2qjL&ref=plSrch

I mainly needed a hot air station so I can remove chips and maybe do reflows, but decided to get a combo unit. Paid about $95 with a 4 year warranty. It also switches to Fahrenheit. Murica! Lol

Hakko is definitely good stuff, but I don’t solder everyday, just every now and then.

No idea on the TS100.