It's ok, no prob. I'll just slowly fade away..... Replaced by a newer, younger, no doubt prettier, and probably smarter programmer.
Ohh - on the 3rd modded Q8, got this: 7,110 @start, 6,510 @30 secs Dang!! All 3 within 200 lumens of each other, and again, not touching the LED's, LED wires, or FET.
Should be possible to hit 1,800 lumens per LED (7,200). Thinking the LED wires to 16 AWG and FET to SIR404DP, maybe improvements under the MCPCB (better grease, sand surfaces to 2000-2500 GRIT.
Placed an order for the minimum qty (3) and the price was $0.95 with standard USPS shipping. Currently going through the posts to find the switch and resistor related comments.
Well, I'm not set up to measure amps for those tail MCPCB mods. I could swap tubes with the prototype that does have the clamp meter loop, see how close it performs in lumens, and if close, then can use it to measure amps. Thinking it's in the 20A-22A range though for these kind of numbers, based on my proto measurements.
Lexel, what is the thickness of these boards? Oshpark does not tell me.
The stock board is 1mm thick, but if they are the same thickness as the drivers that I’m used to (1.5mm?) they stick out of their gap in the Q8-head a little, which could cause the silicon cap not fully touch the rim and this could theoretically make it less waterproof, plus that the retaining ring does not screw in fully.
@tekwyzrd
At Banggood you get 50 switches for about 2$. I have them and use them. Working like they should and are cheaper than on ebay.
And because each led has its own resistor i would start with something about 30K. Depends on the led voltage and desired led brightness.
Thanks Tom. So with 21,8A i am near that result.
Thanks djozz! I could not remember for sure. But i thought the board was thinner. Thats why i asked. Happy that i waited with the order.
absolutely fascinated by this. Thank you djozz. It surely helped me, hopefully others as well. I can’t believe those lil specks were LEDs. Was wondering why on the first one u removed u kept holding the tip of the iron to the left side of the LED to remove it? And WHERE is the resistor in this video??? Someone said that was all that was needed to replace the resistor and it was fine after that.
looked like regular needle nose pliers with a protective sleeve on it?
Well, the MCU would have to be kept running, or periodically woken up to implemented that. I'm pretty sure I can PWM the LED, so can adjust it's brightness. If the MCU had to kept on full, parasitic drain would be quite high, so have to look into optimizing that - maybe turn down the clock rate from 8 Mhz to 1 or 2, consumes less power, then see if the MCU could be put into deep sleep, but run a timer interrupt at maybe 4 Hz or so, so for example, if it runs 4X/sec, takes 25 msecs to execute, power consumption could be cut to 10% (100 msecs running out of 1000 msecs). Dunno - this is all theoretical til I or someone looks into it - I'm think'n TK .
Anyway, that would be the mechanism periodically every 250 msecs, change the brightness of the LED's in a slow "breath" pattern. Didn't check parasitic drain of the MF-01 with the switch LED dragon breath on - not sure if anyone has yet.