ENEDED

Thanks for letting me know! Well, I guess I’ll have to wait until the 219Cs are back in stock, at least.

Any luck finding out?

@freemee: i should be on the list for a Nichia but dont find my name…

Im surprised that freeme read all comments and changed my choice when i mentioned that
Good work freeme

Well I got back from an hour and a half midnight walk with my MF-01 (219C 5000K 90+ CRI) and M43 (219C 5000K 80+ CRI). Some thoughts:

1) Beam profile of the MF-01 is pretty much the same (to my eyes) as that of the M43, so it’s just fabulous!
2) Light output of MF-01 is clearly more than M43. Both ceiling bounce test and throw value show about 50% increase in brightness for the MF-01; roughly 10000 lumens. Nice!
3) A/B comparison is required, but colour rendering of MF-01 is indeed a bit better than that of M43: colours of green leaves are definitely a bit more vivid.
4) Parasitic drain with green breathing light on is about 3 mA @ 4.2V. Since this light is a battery indicator I don’t see this as a problem.
5) Thermal management of M43 is much better than that of MF-01. MF-01 steps down to a fairly low value. I have read it should be about 2500 lumens, but to my eyes it was more like 1500~2000 lumens. M43 is able to maintain a much higher output for a longer period of time, even though the body is smaller. This is a good example of engineering brilliance of the Meteor.
6) red light comes on at 3.4V (6.8V for two cells in series), just like the specs of Astrolux. Resting voltage of cells when I got home was 3.67V. Using HKJ’s data for 30Q at 10A (roughly the draw when turbo), you get 3.4V (with sag).
7) Resting voltage of all four cells when I got home was identical to 0.001V. So I have no carrier contact problem, as mentioned by some other members.
8) One cluster of 6 emitters is a tad brighter than the other two clusters. This is visible in lowest mode. The light has got three discrete drivers, so I don’t see this as a problem.
9) Lowest mode is about 5 lumens or so.
10) Minor gripe with carrier: the four rods are sort of rubberised. When removing the cells, you’re pushing the cell against the two rubberised rods, resulting in resistance due to friction. This makes it difficult to remove the cells. It feels like you have super stiff springs. A different finish of the rods is preferred. An even minor detail of the carrier: I prefer hex screws instead of the current Phillips screws.
11) lock-out, and un-lock unfortunately (for me) does not reset mode memory, so the light will still come on in the mode you were before lock-out.
12) Light has a nice satin finish. I like this a lot.

Conclusion: I hope most people will have a good functioning sample like mine. And assuming you get a good sample, there is no other way for me to conclude that this light is an absolute must, must, must buy. Especially for $70~80,- it’s absolutely fabulous, and I certainly don’t mind my personal observation regarding thermal management, and the UI that won’t let you start from low. My second MF-01 is lost somewhere, but it’s coming my way. If things don’t turn sour, I will certainly be getting the MF-02 as well. Two thumbs up for the MF-01. :+1: :+1:

- Update 2017/9/27 -

I checked output with cell voltage of 30Q = 3.67V
Ceiling bounce test compared to M43 shows that MF-01 actually produces less in turbo than M43! Turbo output of M43 is constant as a function of cell voltage until about 3.5V.
MF-01 at V = 3.67V has turbo output of about 6250 lumens. Level 4 (=high) output produces about 3800 lumens.

:partying_face:

Just realised that my name isn’t on the list. I noted my interest in another 219c in post #1258. Thanks.

Edit, change to 219c on #4 slot. Ty

[quote=Ozythemandias]

[quote=silicoon]

At aliexpress, 219C also enters the cart.
Time sale is over in 3 hours.
I do not know whether it will be back orders or cancellation.

All existing stocks are sold out, so we should expect the new batch to be upgraded version.

What is different in the upgraded version?

got my Nichia light tonight and im really happy with it :smiley:

now bring on the MF02 and i’ll smack bang x2

This is cheap and in stock. Considering this. This must be the first version right?

What you could try is to cover the rods with black heat shrink tubing. It will look factory and give a less grippy feel.

You have to tell us what “this” is. I don’t know what your asking.

Ops! Sry I was talking about the aliexpress deal.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-Astrolux-MF01-18x-XP-G3-Nichia-219C-12000LM-Super-Bright-LED-Flashlight-18650-IPX-7/32832318931.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.40.cOJsuW&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10307_10137_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_5470020_10059_10532_100031_10099_5460020_10338_10339_10103_10102_5590020_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_5380020_10171_10326_10084_10083_5370020_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_143_10312_10313_10314_10078_10079_10073,searchweb201603_30,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=4d97b8c3-5235-4e16-82ef-0b1706f0a694&algo_expid=84b60730-8be1-418c-8931-f0243647a822-5&algo_pvid=84b60730-8be1-418c-8931-f0243647a822

at least: same new battery tube as on the MF02: ENEDED
perhaps there are some other changes, but that have to be answered by freeme.

I thought I had answered this same question a few days ago, but that was on the Q8 thread. Oops.

Okay, so the Aliexpress store Elfeland is Banggoods store. They do not have any in stock even though they say they do. Dont be fooled. They will take your money and then wait until they get the lights, then ship them out just like Banggood. When they do ship them it will be the newer version just like the Banggood store will ship.

My 30Qs are shrink wrapped, and it’s already a tight fit (not too tight; it’s a nice fit).
I suddenly wonder with all these different flashlights with battery carriers, to what extend you can lego these rods with slightly different lengths to accommodate different cell types…

Thanks for the great reply :slight_smile:
Is there any ETA on the new version?

I wonder if the rubber coating can be removed? You could sand or scrape it off. Put in an a drill and hold sandpaper to it. Get it to bare metal then add the heatshrink. Just a thought.