will this light be in my hand before the first snow storm ?
its 91 degrees here today :person_facepalming:
These kind of topics with a lot of people saying things are kind of hard to follow sometimes for me, and I don’t do technical stuff 
So that is why you see “general communication” after my name I keep track of this.
Behind the scene a lot is going on.
But at times people doing a lot of technical work are only visible in email and PM.
The new carrier needs a driver adaptation so a lot of talk and designing going on here. Leaving less time to post.
(Check for example Fritz seemingly silent in the FW3A but that is because he is doing a lot not so visible to all now.)
Not just for you TM. I have to glance up to see what thread I’m on and we have it easy. You have it much worse since you’re a mover and shaker on multiple threads.
Thank you for the info Enderman… good to know he is OK.
Check out the new sig 
Cheers David
Hahaha nice one pommie
If you ever get bored, I’ll bare the burden of taking that proto off your hands for a week or so. :innocent:
You are quite welcome to try and pry it from my wife’s grubby little hands, I tried and failed
Cheers David
We need moar pictures!!!
Very nice pommie, very nice indeed!!! . :+1: … 
the best battery for this light is NCR18650GA, which has highest capacity now, and the cell can handle the current no problem
We dont know if the GA tops make contact in the stock carrier
button top GA or 35E seems the best, followed by 3400nAh protected panasonics, that do have buttons (I dont know about the GA and 35E)
For this,I have ordered my 8pcs from nkon.nl,as I can’t buy Liion batteriesfrom China, and they are on their way now.
Look at this.
NCRB’s would be best value for money surely
Ah I have had a talk over the phone with the owner of NKON and his buttons are hand welded on there to ensure minimum resistance added.
I’ve had top notch service from Nkon and their price are great for a European shop.
About the choice of batteries, i’v come to the conclusion that the only battery i need for all my 18650 usage are the superbly versatile 30Q, they are only 15% less capacity than the highest capacity 18650, they have a very low internal resistance that make them capable to deliver very high currents when needed, they are very resiliant to repeated high current usage ( more so than the VTC6 or HG2 according to Mooch tests) and they are cheap and very available.
It greatly simplifies my battery upkeep/rotation.
Does anyone know the beam angle of the GT?
Just did a highly inaccurate measurement of my C8 and the hotspot seems to be roughly 38cm across at 5 meters or +–2 degrees or a 4 degree cone. I wonder how collimated the GT’s beam is?
PSA - Cells pulled from recent (less than 2 years old) Teslas appear to be derived from the NCR18650GA, but have additional Tesla “special sauce” added that appears to improve cycle life considerably, as well as survive abuse considerably better than most other cells. I’ve got a couple test cells I’ve cycled from 4.25 to 0.0v and back (clamped in dead short for 24 hours after 5A discharge to 0.5v) and after 10 cycles like that, they’re still within 50mAh of the non-abused cells. Also notable is internal resistance drops considerably with heat - unlike most cells that only seem to noticeably show this below 0C, the cells I’ve tested have a pretty significant lessening of voltage sag above 40C.
Like the normal NCR18650GA, not optimal for high current applications, but if you don’t need a 30Q, it’s really hard to beat these. I’ve bought mine from the guy below, but they’re pretty common on ebay now as well. Previous wrapped cells I’ve gotten from him did need a solder blob to work with lights like the Q8. I’ll report when I get my latest order if the current ones are the same.
What?!
Please make a topic about this
I am sure lots of people don’t read the GT thread and what you write is very interesting (and a bit weird)
This deserves a deeper talk
(Me thinking about dangers of under voltage dendrites is something id like to read smarter people react to)