I will personally be using a GA cell in my D1 when it arrives. (Probably) Still no noticeable output loss (to the naked eye) but longer runtime.
I think there is more voltage sag with the 30q. I haven’t tested this but I’ve anecdotally noticed that the vtc5 stays brighter for much longer than the 30q. Don’t have a vtc5a or vtc6 though, just vtc5… Also this is on a D4 which has a much higher drain so the d1 might prefer the 30qs…
Why stock D1 has only 1400lm while blf a6 with spring bypass has 1600lm? Is it because the dome in a6 or something else?
When you’re using a light with a fet driver (VN drivers are fet drivers too) and a high Vf led , like xp-g2 , output can be up to 15% better with a VTC5A . Even if both 30Q and VTC5A are in a low voltage , let’s say 3.4V , VTC5A will give more current than the 30Q .
G Damian. The D1 uses an xpl HI. The blfa6 uses xpl HD. The dome on the a6 makes it have a higher total output, while the HD version has less lumens but much more throw.
That’s semi-true.
Dome improves output and reduces throw.
But the highest bin of XP-L HI is 4 bins below that of HD. The difference that the dome makes amounts to ~1 bin. I have no idea why there’s no XP-L HI V6 available.
So I guess the right answer would be that D1 uses V3 bin and A6 uses V6 bin, just that.
I was trying to be a little simplistic for him. Stated another way: G. Damain if you took the led out of your blf A6, dedomed it, and then reflowed it onto the mcpcb of the D1, and the power was identical, the overall total output would be 20 percent less but the throw would increase nearly 50 percent.
Agro is correct in that the difference is less here because the HI emitters are already binned substantially lower than the v6 bin. All together this adds up to be 7-11 percent less in this case. It’s probably less however because to get 1600 lumens out of the blf A6 you have to do everything right : springs bypassed correctly on both of the springs, and use a high drain battery that is capable of being charged to 4.35v and a charger that is also capable. And be sure to keep everything clean. Notice: NEVER EVER CHARGE A LITHIUM BATTERY TO 4.35v UNLESS IT IS SPECIFICALLY RATED FOR IT. You will at best drastically reduce capacity and lifetimes of the battery, and at worse overheat the battery until it vents or violently ruptures, destroying the battery, charger, and cause damage to everything in the vicinity. I’m sorry if you already know this but it pays to mention safety. When I first got into flashlights I had asked Richard at mountain electronics if I could charge a new batch of Samsung 30qs I got from him to 4.35v. The response came in what could have been the fastest email reply the world has ever known. He laid out everything bad that could happen in bold and all caps! It scared the crap out of me then and still does, so I usually try to pass the warning along to others.
Does anyone have any idea what price the D1s will be released at? Also is the emitter going to be an xpl hi? I am assuming so due to the throw numbers but I have not heard definitively.
Joey Adams, Agro: thank you for explanation, now it is clear 
Ok.I believe you. My battery knowledge comes from you modders on here, HKJ,MOOCH.JON from Liionwholsale.
I can only speak for myself, I can sometimes drive myself nuts with these battery choices when a lot of times there is not much if any difference b/w the best ones[VTC5/A,30Q,VTC6]! I do not think I am alone in that regard! At the same time I want the best battery for the light in question.
This is for my D1vn light:Spec 2: SST40 HD 6500K Lumen 2300, Lux 48K, Throw 438m
For this light Vinh just changes the LED. I do not think there is a current boost and Tom E’s and TK’S UI and internal parts all remain[EXCEPT the LED].
I ONLY use my single cell lights for 15 minutes, max 20 minutes for the ones using less output.I like MAX output on the trail so I always bring a spare to pop in. When I get home they are all between 3.76v and 3.86v depending on the light and duration of use. They NEVER get close to 3.4v,not even near 3.6v. So when I look at HKJ’S comparator, I am looking for the battery w/ the least amount of voltage sag up to ~3.70v. So run time for these single cell modded lights is not the most important, it is the max current to give the most output up to 3.7v. 
EDIT: For this light I am actually looking for a bit longer run time since it will be pushing 2300 lumens………~600 more than any other single cell 18650 light I have.Hence the 30Q over my VTC5A. I probably have to put a fresh battery in after 10 or 12 minutes!
I tried to simplify this for my preference and the way that I use my lights.
This is a pretty close estimate from HKJ’s comparator at 7Amps. It is not much different @5Amps.
I compared the VTC5A to the VTC5/VTC6 and the 30Q.This is in regards to voltge sag from the beginning which is most important to me.
VTC5A VS. VTC5- VTC5A has LESS voltage sag until ~3.2V
VTC5A VS. VTC6- VTC5A has LESS voltage sag until ~3.86v
VTC5A VS. 30Q- VTC5A has LESS voltage sag until ~ 3.80v. Then they are EVEN with one test battery until 3.68V.
I think the main reason the other batteries eventually take over is because they all have more capacity. Not positive of this.
Technically, for my preference[changes battery every 15 minutes], where I am NOT concerned about run time, instead obsessed with MAX output I should be using the VTC5A!!! :sunglasses: Got Two yesterday, Only $5.99/each w/ tax,FREE SHIPPING because I am a walk in!
On the other hand, from a visual perspective, there will be NO noticeable difference and I would get more run time with the 30Q.
I think when I go to Liionwholsale, I will flip a coin between the VTC5A and 30Q.A GREAT PLACE 1.5 Miles from my house.
VTC6 definitely degrades faster[see MOOCH chart] from my experience.That would not be one of my choices in the future.
Could someone post beam shot of the warm and cool side by side? I got the warm version but maybe they send cool by accident.
I don’t have a pic for you. But I don’t think it’s warm but a 3a neutral white,wich is a bit on the cold side for most people.
Yeah I meant neutral. I got the 3a. It’s 5000K right?
I won’t contradict you on the fact to not overcharge a battery but a Samsung 30Q won’t vent or explode, it will only leak with strong abuse. Be reassured, it is a very safe chemistry.
Take a look at the safety test at the end of its datasheet.
Yes i can vouch for this as i may have accidentally charged 30Q and also vtc5 maybe 3 or 4 times in the last 2yrs. This was my stupid error, not done on purpose so do not recommend obviously. No issue, certainly no venting , i simply had a 4.35v 30Q which no doubt would have took a couple of cycles off its life. Cells are used still today with no issue found or noticed in use.
I know you are all on the edge of your seats wondering what my FINAL battery decision will be for my D1vn SST40 HD.
After looking at the comparator over and over again[!!!] for at least a half hour of total time, and analyzing the VTC5A with all the legitimate contenders, I have chosen the VTC5A :sunglasses: which has better or just as good voltage curve until 3.68Amps against the 30Q. I will be changing my battery by then!
My buddy and hometown dealers website reviews of the VTC5A also helped. ,Liionwholesale.com :+1:
Would be interesting to compare the D1 with the TN4A HI, they might be about the same size and the same price.
The TN4A can output turbo for 60min without stepdown (I’d be surprised if the D1 can do the same), uses classic AA battery (advantage ?)
D1 : 1300lm, 43000cd, distance ?. 35mm head, smaller
TN4A hi: 1050lm, 52340cd, 457m. 45mm head, bigger.
What’s funny is, that thrunite is there for years already and yet people talk about the D1 as if it was revolutionary
Because TN4A has nearly 3 times the size (volume)?
2 posts and you already seem to now everythhing about pocket throwers, please enlighten us !
Quick thoughts :
1 cm more in diameter, bulky cylinder form factor for the TN4A, 10$ more, 250 lumens less and twice the weight of the D1…
They’re not even competitors.