Ohhh thank you! I think I like that Nichia better!
After reading all 47 pages Iāll have to agree with you. Nichia does look a lot better despite the lesser output. The photo from Aussi above showed exactly what you were referring to. And the Nichia isnāt that far behind interma of light output (in picture). The camera might be able to pick up the difference but I think to our eyes will be the sameā¦ blinding lol.
Iāve also heard that Nichia in turbo mode will produce slightly more heat than the XP-G3, and I know someone posted about it few pages agoā¦ but I canāt find it anymore lol.
Welcome to BLF!
Are you sure you want with this one?
It gets hot fast, has cells in series and the actual longer usable brightness is matched by lights that are cheaper and donāt get so hot.
I do like how that carrier is made though, but the massive output just makes it too hot too fast and it misses a real moon (with a moon one can look at the LEDs, I like that but low on the MF01 is too high for that).
I am using it with 30Q BT cells.
So idk what you are used to but a nice clear C8 NW Biscotti packs a nice punch and seems more practical and safe to begin with
(Read up on li ion safety see link in my SIG)
Hello!
I am actually looking into several lights and I found a very great deal on Haikelite MT03 and I already pulled the trigger on it lol
10LM,150LM,1000LM is a usable and good light spacing for me, and get to kill zombies with 9000s so that one I got (But havenāt arrived yetā¦)
At first I was looking at Imalent lights but the one I interested in had bad lighting spacing (from too low to too high) so I scratched that off the list.
Another I very considering is the Klarus G20ā¦ 3000 lumens max (Or so they claimed) Rechargeable and comes with battery ready to play. Also found a very good price just under $65 newā¦
Reason I want this MF01 is because of that high lumens output with under $100ā¦ I know it wonāt be able to run in turbo for very long but I still want it for no real reasonsā¦ā¦ but bright lol
To be honest I do not know how long āmy fixā will last on the carrier. The entire brass button assembly seems terribly weak and if you change batteries often without checking if there is full contact on the board, it may loosen without you knowing it (not everybody have a DMM) and then you are āburingā batteries. The whole soldering process reminds me of my black and white TV that I had in the late 70ās. You just looked at it, and the wires came loose. (Cold soldering.)
(So yes freeme, if the first batch buyers can get hand on an upgraded carrier I will feel much happier both for myself and all others.)
Wow I only just now found out about thisā¦ Sweet.
QUESTION: Anybody willing to let me borrow one of these to compare with some other lights in a video? I can pay a deposit and shipping costs both ways etc?
Alright guys tell me how does this work? I post which model I want and they will reserved a light for me? or how does this work.
If anythingā¦ Iām leaning the Nichia 219Cā¦
500 lumens difference between XP-G3 and Nichia is probably almost not noticeable to eyesā¦.? Saw a few video reviews I canāt really tell the difference between the 2ā¦ Both look great to meā¦ But after reading 47 pages on hereā¦ I saw lots of people choose the Nichia for itās CRI and the tint. So I think Iāll do that too lol
The price increase of MF01 V2 is considered to be due to the holster attachment.
Since it is attached to MF02, it is not strange even if it is attached.
Letās expect
In your report XP-G3 seems to be almost 12000lm,if 219C it is about 10000lm.
Even if you compare both, the difference in degree can be seen.Also, fever and color are different.
Yes. To keep the white disc in place, it was not glued but retained by the brass button that has a āTā shape. The larger upper part of the brass button keeps the white disc in place.
So they have to put the disc first and then solder the brass button. I suppose that they heat the brass button quickly to not burn the white disc, this resulting in cold joint and/or brass button not fully soldered down to the MCPCB for optimized contact.
After removing the white discs on my MF-01, the 4 brass buttons were sitting āhigherā than the MCPCB, one with little solder under it.