Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

The 1 or 2 screws by the led prevent the mcpcb from rotating when you tighten the bezel.

The driver retaining ring has 2 holes in it. I use snap ring pliers to fit in and easily turn it. Or you can take needle nose pliers and grind the tips down to a smaller diameter.

The rest is all correct. 4 wires to unsolder from the old and solder to the new.

You want to use rosin core wire for electronics. Typically 60/40 tin/lead Sn/Pb, roughly 3% flux.

The cheap soldering irons are okay, but not very high quality or very powerfull usually. Before I bought my digital soldering station I used this model for many years.
http://www.frys.com/product/4825190
and still have it as a backup. Pretty cheap with adjustable heat and 50w of power. The 3 o’clock knob position is good for circuits and max is good for automotive wires. So not a lot of adjustment range, but still nice.

i am using that exact battery no problem with contact.

Jason, what digital soldering station do you currently use?

The Hakko 888 is hard to beat. I got mine when they still had analog but the digital ones now are even nicer.

Is TS100 good solder? I’m tempting to buy one of that.

Thanks, Dale. Unfortunately the Hakko is not in my budget. I’m thinking of replacing a 30+ year old Weller soldering “gun”.

I got a Yihua 995d.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RL9YWQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506773361&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=995d+soldering+station&dpPl=1&dpID=51O3jrV2qjL&ref=plSrch

I mainly needed a hot air station so I can remove chips and maybe do reflows, but decided to get a combo unit. Paid about $95 with a 4 year warranty. It also switches to Fahrenheit. Murica! Lol

Hakko is definitely good stuff, but I don’t solder everyday, just every now and then.

No idea on the TS100.

I also bought a combo unit and am really glad I did. Learning to use hot air reflow has changed my modding world :slight_smile: I went even cheaper than the Yihua above though, with this 872+. Mine’s branded “Zeni” but the same hardware can be found with lots of different names printed on it, including Yihua. I’ve had it almost exactly a year now, used it quite a lot in that time, and its been awesome.

Anyone here with FET driven XHP70.2 and SMO reflector that has measured his L6 for throw? What kind of numbers can this thing push in this configuration?

Ordered P2 4000k from Kaidomain so i am not patient enough, i need to know these things now :smiley:

I got 830m, but with a P2 1D.

A 4000k tint will be less lumens.

Why it will be less lumens when it is still a P2 bin ?

The lower tint puts it at the bottom of the power bin, seems like. All the warmer colors are lower output than the cooler colors of same power bin. Just how it is.

I have a smooth reflector on the way for my L6, should have some new numbers on it soon. It’s making 9200+ lumens with the original OP, so that should change, just a question of how much.

This is one of the reason’s Vinh’s lights cost what they do, he buys a LOT of emitters and cherry picks the best ones out of the bin group.

It may measure more now that I think about it. My lux measurements have always been pretty low compared to people like Matt at Adventure Sport Flashlights. Here is a comparison of my L6 and his L6. Both our lux meters are very close in calibration, yet his lux measurements are higher. We did the exact same mods and we both doubled the lux, but his numbers are higher.

My current lux with the 70.2 and dome still on is 172 kcd or 830 meters. If Matt did the same as me, his numbers might be closer to 200 kcd which is almost 900 meters. I’m not too concerned about numbers though, I have a lot of power and just the right amount of hot spot size to throw that suits my needs.

Thanks for the info Jason and emarkd……those are nice stations, but you guys are doing stuff way above my pay grade!

You haven’t seen anything, yet. You should check out the price on some of the JBC soldering equipment. That’s what the pros use. Hakko is a nice alternative that is much cheaper.

If you want to see some informative videos on soldering irons as well as how to use them, you might want to check out some of Louis Rossmanns videos. They can be long, but he has a nice microscope camera so you can see exactly what he’s doing.

i did the same with my batteries using a small flathead to bend the positive terminal upward, it works great. today i decided to take some measurements:

bent pos term measured ~14.85A
to my surprise, solder blob measured ~16A

topped of the batteries to measure the new max ~18.1A!

Probably because the solder blob is making more contact, allowing the current to flow easier.

Jason, thanks for the links….you’re right, it will take some time to get through them, but they are interesting and informative.

The budget soldering station of choice is Hobbyking’s Hakko 936 clone. $23 is hard to beat and it works great if you are not a professional.

The shipping on these lights is actually pretty fast from Simon. Mine arrived several days ago much faster than I expected. Even on just two batteries it is pretty bright. However, I ordered a short tube also thinking it would add length to the tube, but I obviously didn’t see that both ends were threaded in the picture. I saw a picture of one that was longer than normal somewhere, but there is no extension tube listed on ali. Does anyone know where to get one?