Cree XHP50.2

[LightRider]

@tekwyzrd

@LightRider

@tekwyzrd

I installed the 22mm TA driver and xhp50.2 3a from fasttech in my convoy l5 and was initially pleased. To maximize heat transfer I reflowed the star to the pill. After assembly all 4 dies worked and I was impressed by the output. Today I removed the pill to do the foil wrap and after re-assembly found two dies no longer working. Maybe I’ll try another .2 after a driver tailored to them appears but for now it looks like I need a first-gen xhp50 and tune to deal with the cross. I lost two dies while powered by 2x 26350s so I doubt it was current that did it.

I think there has been a number of reports that the 50.2 needs to be regulated at least with pwm or they go poof. Any reports of successful dd 50.2 builds?

The mode groups were modified so the highest mode isn’t dd. Combined with the purple 26350s from the gb a while back there should have been no failure.

What do you think was the source of the problem?

[LightRider]

Thanks for the info. So the 6v only pulled 6.7 dd?

[Tom_E]

Just got in 3 XHP50.2 4000K 90 CRI, and 3 XHP50.2 5000K 90 CRI LEDs. Both are H4 binned, and slightly off the XHP50.2 data sheet that shows H2 as the highest 90 CRI bin.

I'm dying to see the 5000K especially. Got them from a friend overseas. He also included 6 nice 20 mm copper DTP stars and 20 high voltage 7135's. No idea where he gets the from but appear to be quite rare now.

Thanks A Whole Bunch!

[steel_1024]

About H4……

Maybe they are all samples.

So I asked the seller to send the package together.

XHP50.2 4000K 90CRI

Left：XHP50.2 4000K 90CRI 、Right：XPL Hi (L2)

[The_Driver1 (The_Driver)]

Where does he get them overseas?

[steel_1024]

@The_Driver

Where does get get them overseas?

from China
However, the number is very small.
So I guess these are samples.

[finges]

Does anyone know a good 16mm 12v pcb with dtp for this led?

[JasonWW]

@finges

Does anyone know a good 16mm 12v pcb with dtp for this led?

I don’t know, but you might contact this Maxtoch store on Aliexpress and ask if they carry it. I only saw aluminum 16mm 12v boards currently listed, but I know they don’t list everything they have.

http://s.aliexpress.com/amq6VNri

[finges]

Thanks, I also found these but don’t know if they are dtp

[TBone]

@finges

Thanks, I also found these but don’t know if they are dtp

At Kaidomain they are listed as DTP. Don’t know if this is correct but I would give it a try.

[JasonWW]

I was always advised to avoid those 12v mcpcb that had the z shape in the middle and to get the ones with 5 seperate pads. I’m not sure the exact reason, maybe a more experienced member can explain why.

[JasonWW]

This is what Jerommel told me.

@Jerommel

@JasonWW

There you have the problem of giving the thermal pad half the voltage, because it is connected to the pads, and to the body of the light.
So it’s a bad recommendation, because you will short circuit half the LED and probably blow up the driver too.

@Jerommel

@Jerommel

You could cut the traces (on the 6v version) and ‘jumper-wire’ the 2 halves in series.

Like this:

.

[finges]

Thanks for the advice!

I have a few 16mm dtp pcb’s for XM-L. I’ll try the cut&bridge method.

[finges]

Success

Still with old test led (CW XHP50).

Just ordered a 4000K XHP50.2.

It’ll go into a HC33 to replace the CW XHP35.

[Jaded]

Can someone explain the 3-step and 5-step characteristic of the XHP50.2? Which one is better or more ideal to acquire? From what I’ve observed so far, 5-step has better CRI rating.

[Wieselflinkpro]

With 3-step the color-temperature you get is closer binned and there es less variety than in 5-step.

[Jaded]

Are you saying 3-step is better? What would you buy for yourself?

[The_Driver1 (The_Driver)]

3-step is more consistent in tint, but for 4000k it’s consistently yellow-greenish.

[JasonWW]

What do you mean, bad? It’s an led. It has its pros and cons like any other led.

Are you asking if Zebralight is a good or bad brand? I hear they are good.

[JasonWW]

It’s a smaller version of the 70.2. Personally, If I were building a light, I would go with the bigger 70 as it puts out a lot more light at the same amp load as the xhp50.

Fet drivers have been know to blow the 50.2, so you have to be careful and run weaker batteries to limit the amp draw.

But if your buying a factory light, your in a whole other world. Most folks here are into building hot rods and pushing the limits. A factory light should be fine. It’s probably using a boost driver which carefully controls the max output so it will last a long time. You will be fine.