I wonder if the type of PWM (phase-correct PWM -vs- fast PWM) matters. I seem to remember CC and TK mentioning it impacted moonlight. Maybe it impacts higher modes too?
What exactly is a triple channel driver?
I need more drivers to do more extensive testing. If anyone know somebody in Europe who can sell me high quality FET drivers please let me know!
impressive LED!
Good Job Djozz 
Your de doming results does not look to good friend. Lot of silicone residues remaining everywhere.
It seems like your nitro paint thinner and toluene gives absolutely same results
I still recommend that you stick to nitro paint thinner (the cleaning type that you can actually use to wash your hands and even face from paint if necessary) it is not dangerous at all comparing to toluene which is deadly poison
So far your de doming looks like good rookie attempt to proper de doming. Continue with good work and develop your methods :+1:
Would any one be willing to toluene dedome me one?
This story gets stranger by the hour…
A driver difference causing such a tint shift?
It’s actually hard to believe…
Ehh… Just so you know, Nitro thinner contains between 60-70% of Toluene. So no one should wash anything with it.
Besides that, I couldn’t care less about the silicone remains around the phosphorus. It doesn’t affect anything.
Edit: and rookie attempt? It’s not exactly rocket science we’re talking about. So if I leave it in for a bit longer that makes me a pro? Good to know!
Tell me about! But it’s the only plausible explanation. I swapped the LEDs again, this time in two other hosts. The results were the same.
Maybe true, but i’m not happy when there are still bits of silicone on the die either.
If there’s still some on the die, the LED goes back into the hot solvent (not toluene, i’m waiting for that to arrive from Germany, i will use that at room temperature, not around 100°C like i do with car fuel or mixtures)
Sure, I could have left it in longer, but I didn’t want to risk that the die got loose again, so I stopped there. And when the tint came out the way it did I was more than happy!
Could also be the lens.
Does one of your lights have an AR-coated lens. I have some Olights whose AR coating would turn any tint green.
It’s not the lens. They have the same lens and I’ve even swapped them with each other. Still the same result.
Ordered Sunday 10-1 at my door Tuesday 10-3 now that was FAST! 
And it was packed very well! 
:+1:
Great! Looking forward to see your results :+1:
What drivers do you use? If possible could you check with a FET only driver and then with a driver that doesn’t use PWM? It would be interesting to see if anyone else except me and twisted raven gets the same results.
Would love to see the results from the same led tint and bin for a Domed, Hot dedomed, Nitro dedomed, and Toluene dedomed led…
Or at least just a Domed and Toluene dedomed led comparison same bin and tint…
Thanks!
I’m still waiting on (15) SST-40’s??? Hopefully this weekend, it’s supposed to be a beautiful, cold and rainy weekend here!! :+1:
Not really. My Quark 2AA-X does that. On turbo, it’s not too bad. On moonlight, greeeeeeeeeen.
I think it’s that when driven hard, other phosphors than green come out fine (“underdriven”, as far as phosphors go), and green saturates. When driven not so hard, a predominant green really comes through.
Fet only driver uses pwm only to dim the led. When using fet and pwm the led sees the same max current on all levels just for shorter periods of time. Cc drivers reduce the current and show it to the leds constantly. An led generally shows more color warms up a bit at lower currents as aposed to higher currents where the led shows less color and becomes cooler k wise. Usually increasing the current to the led will continue to get cooler till the point when it starts turning blue and then poof.
So in the case of the traveling green curse above there are two scenarios :
1.) the led is getting less current and showing more green color,
2.) the led is overdriven and turning green.
If the driver is causing the trouble it would have to be because if scenario two. As it is an fet only driver and show max current to the led at all times. Even so leds usually turn blue when over driven not green. However thus led shows a “new” tint that is generally unfamiliar. Does anyone know if overpowering an sst40 turns the tint to green?
Very weird to see such a difference! If there is some other aspect of this driver, other than the curse, that would open up some new parameters in the search for good tints:)
Huh… just thought of something.
LEDs, whether warm or cool, have a weak spot in the bluegreen area of the spectrum. There’s not enough difference in wavelength to reradiate bluegreen from a blue light. Just like new LEDs use violet LEDs to excite phosphors for better “blue-end” response, maybe the shift towards “bluer” with high currents creates less “green tint” (not sure where exactly in the spectrum this’d be, more like yellow-green from what I recall).
It was… maukkona(?sp)… who did the spectral stuff with LEDs. Anyone want to engage him to do that for the same LED but different drive levels?
Not really. It was measured in the D4 thread that with fast PWM current is always in some intermediate state.