Excellent photos!
Please do. I’m curious how you have it all set up.
Okay - no worries - it will be tomorrow probably, I’ll send them via PM……
Have you checked out the Lume Cube? Can be triggered by other flashes (by light) but not by radio triggers. Apparently is quite cool white and not high CRI. Can also be controlled from smart phone via Bluetooth.
Gorgeous photos! My favorite is the ‘common darter.’
Looking forward to seeing your rig.
I’m off to check out your flickr page. Hoping to see a few of those goats you mentioned. 
You may want from clemence Nichi 219 9080 LEDs
The better CRI will be good for photography
thanks for posting those images, the colors and detail are amazing!
I would be curious to see how a couple of tips contribute to your lighting
I would of though the pics were taken during the day.
Those photo’s are amazing, please feel free to post up more!
Sweet photos, DrHook59! 
Thanks for the compliments guys I couldn’t help myself, sorry. And as there seems to be some interest in the rig I’ll post the pics here later this morning. It’s FUGLY, I’m warning you.
goshdogit - you’ll find my flickr page here if that helps.
jon_slider - if you visit the page above you’ll see the pics in better resolution if you want to look at them in detail. Be aware though that these are taken on a compact camera, so the IQ is not great.
Okay, sorry for the delay. Here are some photos of my S120 rig. I forgot to mention that the Convoy S2+ has a triple XP from kiriba-ru in it. This gives a whack of light when one needs it.
The flexible arms the NiteCore TIPS are attached to are these. I really want to get a couple of the new clips for the TIPS and ‘sugru’ them to the flexible arms instead and then I’ll be able to take the TIPS on and off for charging much easier. As you can imagine the TIPS can be made to shine anywhere - up, side, above, under, behind and all
Interesting setup, DrHook, although I’m not sure this would accomplish what I’m trying to do. I want black/unlit background in my photos. I suppose it’s more about the positioning of the lights than anything else.
Pete, easy enough to do. Find an empty cardboard box and paint the inside of it black, and put a plinth in there to put your objects on and paint that black too. Or line it with black foam board, that’s very effective too.
A home-made one of these, but basically free
I can’t believe you get photo’s that look THAT GOOD out of that Dr Jekyl setup, amazing and unbelievable innovation!
Impressive lighting setup!
:cry: I can’t believe you can say this about my little S120. My life is ruined……
Seriously though, there is nothing existent on the market for this camera - you have to make anything you want, sigh. And as I don’t have much more than a hacksaw and a drill, I had to be inventive, especially as I wanted to keep things ‘pocketable’ As it happens, I use plastic fishing squids for all sort of small diffusers, and I have quite a collection of bastardised cutlery now, in a box. I’m done for if the head chef ever takes a stock count 
I know I’m in good company though, as if you look through a macro forum you’ll see similar contraptions made out of all sorts for more expensive cameras. And when it comes to diffusers, the amount and breadth of imagination knows no bounds! Plus, you get exactly what you need.
I think it’s the Mark IV BLF set-up. Been around for ages. Standard practice amongst all good macro people.
Honest
cough
What advantages do you hope to get by using LED lighting? (vs. tungsten)
If accurate color rendering is important for your work, you might be disappointed by the results you get from using even the highest CRI LEDs.
In a remote shoot with no plug-in power, LEDs definitely have some advantages (heat, run time, cost of flashlights).
But if you can plug in to a wall outlet, no LED is going to achieve higher color rendering than a 50¢ incandescent bulb.
If you decide to go the flashlight route, borrow an old school halogen flashlight and compare the results
Or just shoot in RAW and adjust colour balance in post 
Cheers David
I admit to doing none of that. All my shots are simply adjusted with whatever White Balance setting is needed during shooting.
That’s if it is needed anyway, and half the time I don’t think it is. I must have a colourblind camera, :laughing:
You cant photoshop CRI on a non CRI light source
White balance cant fix it, a CRI light wih more red illuminates only red parts, more amber, cyan also come in play with high CRI light source the same way