Wait… What? Since wen want a BLFer a lower output?
The “100% mode” is indeed a stepdown from the hi mode which is “150%”.
The funny thing is, with this driver 100% = 1000mA. So very low 0.01% would be = 0.1mA, low 5% would be = 50mA, medium 40% would be 400mA and of course the 150% would be 1500mA.
Though I agree a stepdown, especially after just 60 seconds, just sucks. But it is probably needed otherwise the driver would overheat?
I got one that i intend to put in a convoy L2 single cell with a xhp35 hi.
Did some testing today with a liitokala 26650.
It pulled 5.24 amps on turbo from the battery that was fresh of the charger at 4.19 volts.
That resulted in 13 volts and 1.35 amps to the led.
The big grey component on the driver got to hot to touch after just a couple of minutes. I intend to get a couple more drivers and test doing a resistor mod on what i guess is the current sensing resistor.
I do not think the driver will survive it without some additional heatsinking
I’m also thinking of doing a XHP35 HI in a F13 mod. I’m thinking of using either this H2-C driver or the 2-cell LD-51. The LD-51 apparently can be resistor-modded to 2-2.5A with proper heatsinking.
Are there any updates regarding the H2-C driver and resistor mods?
I bought the H2-C with XHP50 12V.
With one 26650 battery works fine (didn’t managed to measure the current), when insert the 2nd battery, the driver gave up in 2-3 second.
Mine works fine with 2s, better than with 1s in fact. Is your driver broken now? The only thing I can suggest now is to look for possible shorts, on the driver itself or elsewhere.
The Meco flashlight come with ext. tube out of the box (so yes, I’m adding and removing it).
I didn’t notice any shorts or burned on the board, any area I should zoom in?
I am thinking of using this driver in a 3-XPG setup on a 20mm triple board from KD (series wired).
Is it possible to add a remote low-power switch to this driver ?
Yes, a momentary switch to change modes. Fine soldering is not a problem, I just need to know if this driver can be modded to work with an extra switch
It can be done, to do it right may be difficult though.
One user got it to work by just putting a NO momentary switch across pins 1 and 8 of the MCU, but I don’t advise that as you are shorting the input power for the MCU and op-amp, and could burn out the regulator over time.
I think the correct way to do it would be to cut the power trace that goes to pin 1 of the MCU, then insert a NC (normally closed) momentary switch between the 2.8V regulator and the MCU. Pressing the switch would then cut power to the MCU and change modes.